Once you sand them, you can either restain them another color or paint them. Once you have the boxes the base color you desire, mix one part white glue with one part water. You can also buy Mod Podge in either a matte or gloss finish. Mist the image you wish to decoupage with water (to avoid bubbles) and then paint the decoupage medium on the back of the image. Smooth out the image to remove wrinkles or bubbles, a credit card or brayer works well to do this. Allow the images to thorughly dry and apply at least 3-5 more coats of decoupage medium. You may need to lightly sand or steel wool in between coats to remove the brush strokes. Once you have the desired number of coats, seal the entire item with two coats of a non-yellowing polyurethane.We are sanding wood cigar boxes and then wood like to painting them and decoupage how do we go about doing thi
google search decoupage instructions
Thursday, February 25, 2010
How do you prepare interior wood paneling to be painted?
You need to sand it to give it some tooth for the paint to adhere to it. RoxanneHow do you prepare interior wood paneling to be painted?
To expand on Roxanne's answer, you first need to was the paneling with TSP and water.
The TSP (TriSodium Phosphate) will remove the grease and dirt that's built up over the years.
THEN you sand it lightly with 80 or 100 grit sandpaper to give it more ';tooth.';
Using damp cloths, remove all the sanding dust.
The sanding is necessary to cut into the clear finish which is on the paneling.
Your first coat should be a latex primer, then the next coat (or two) will be indoor water-based latex. ( it doesn't have much of an odour...)
You may also opt for a latex ';intumescent'; paint, which is both paint and a fire retardant, and it works quite nicely.How do you prepare interior wood paneling to be painted?
If they are new, just fine sandpaper - undercoat - then gloss.
If they are used a bit grimey use sugar soap, fine sandpaper then gloss. Sugarsoap will get rid of greasy finger marks and grimed in dirt.
I painted the paneling in my living room. And just prepped by cleaning with TSP. That paneling in there was more porous/not shiny than allot of panelling. And I did not use a primer on it first.
To expand on Roxanne's answer, you first need to was the paneling with TSP and water.
The TSP (TriSodium Phosphate) will remove the grease and dirt that's built up over the years.
THEN you sand it lightly with 80 or 100 grit sandpaper to give it more ';tooth.';
Using damp cloths, remove all the sanding dust.
The sanding is necessary to cut into the clear finish which is on the paneling.
Your first coat should be a latex primer, then the next coat (or two) will be indoor water-based latex. ( it doesn't have much of an odour...)
You may also opt for a latex ';intumescent'; paint, which is both paint and a fire retardant, and it works quite nicely.How do you prepare interior wood paneling to be painted?
If they are new, just fine sandpaper - undercoat - then gloss.
If they are used a bit grimey use sugar soap, fine sandpaper then gloss. Sugarsoap will get rid of greasy finger marks and grimed in dirt.
I painted the paneling in my living room. And just prepped by cleaning with TSP. That paneling in there was more porous/not shiny than allot of panelling. And I did not use a primer on it first.
How to Hide Wood Seams in Bare Wood Furniture When Painting?
I purchased a piece of bare wood furniture (Aspen) for my child's room which I wanted to paint using a Nemo (the movie) color scheme. I first cleaned and light sanded the drawer faces, then I primed them using water based Behr Undercoat %26amp; Sealer.
I light sanded after the primer dried and proceeded to apply the finish coats using Behr water based semi-gloss enamel. I applied a couple of coats using a foam roller in order to achieve a relatively smooth finish without brush marks. I light sanded between top coats, and the overall finish is fairly smooth, however I can see where the pieces of wood were glued together to form the drawer face. Why are these visible? Did the paint soak into these areas or did I not sand the wood enough?
I am not sure what I did wrong, and what I need to do to correct this flaw. I was disappointed in the outcome and put this project aside, but I need to resume work on the project and get this completed.
At this point I need to know how I could have avoided this issue, and then what I need to do to correct it. Do I need to strip or sand the drawer faces back to bare wood, or can I prime over the top coat and start over?
I know some experts recommend oil-based paints, but due to the fact that I have already purchased these Disney colored paints I would like to use them if at all possible. I painted another similar Aspen chest of drawers for my other child and I did not seem to have this problem, at least it was not as obvious.
I chose the semi-gloss for durability, since this will be used in a child's room. To add protection to the top, I used a spray on Helmsman Spar Urethane. It seems to be holding up well so far. Are there better options which are easy to use for a novice, do not produce the dreaded brush marks, and will add a protective layer to the top of this chest?
Also, what about orange-peel effect in the paint? I can see this in my current project, but not sure what causes it. Am I applying the paint too thick? I have a random orbital polisher/sander and foam pads, and I have been told I can use automotive polishes and compounds to refine/smooth the final top coat. Will this tool be useful to remove the orange-peel or do I need to modify my painting techniques?
I took photos of the drawer faces to post with my question, but due to the semi-gloss paint I do not think the seams are visible in the photos. But they are easily visible with the naked eye.
What grits of sandpaper should I be using? I have 220#, 400#, and 600# wet/dry papers available which I use with a sanding block.
Sorry for the length of this post, but I wanted to provide as many details as possible.
Thanks in advance for any help I receive.
How to Hide Wood Seams in Bare Wood Furniture When Painting?
For interior wood it is not the end of the world that you chose wate-based paints and they are not the cause of your visible seams.
You do not need to strip the wood as you have primed and painted correctly, only that you are not happy with it visually.
If when you started painting the wood joints were perfectly flat then you simply need to add a couple more coats of paint.
Orange peel is usually applying the paint too thickly or adding further coats to early. To rectify this simply let the paint harden fully so it can be sanded down and all the suction in it has gone. When it is dry use a sanding block and some 180 grit paper ( adjust grade as necessary). Sand using the sanding block until the orange peel has all or virtually been levelled out.
Next time you paint, stretch the paint right out and apply several coats to compensate. I have done a lot of top work and I can make emulsion look like it has been sprayed on by overstretching the paint. That is the only way. One tip - get the paint on, stretch it out and move on - once paint hits the wood it starts to dry and therefore thicken - so you do not want to be going back over it as it thickens. How to Hide Wood Seams in Bare Wood Furniture When Painting?
Use wood putty then sand smooth. re-apply putty if neede then sand again
I light sanded after the primer dried and proceeded to apply the finish coats using Behr water based semi-gloss enamel. I applied a couple of coats using a foam roller in order to achieve a relatively smooth finish without brush marks. I light sanded between top coats, and the overall finish is fairly smooth, however I can see where the pieces of wood were glued together to form the drawer face. Why are these visible? Did the paint soak into these areas or did I not sand the wood enough?
I am not sure what I did wrong, and what I need to do to correct this flaw. I was disappointed in the outcome and put this project aside, but I need to resume work on the project and get this completed.
At this point I need to know how I could have avoided this issue, and then what I need to do to correct it. Do I need to strip or sand the drawer faces back to bare wood, or can I prime over the top coat and start over?
I know some experts recommend oil-based paints, but due to the fact that I have already purchased these Disney colored paints I would like to use them if at all possible. I painted another similar Aspen chest of drawers for my other child and I did not seem to have this problem, at least it was not as obvious.
I chose the semi-gloss for durability, since this will be used in a child's room. To add protection to the top, I used a spray on Helmsman Spar Urethane. It seems to be holding up well so far. Are there better options which are easy to use for a novice, do not produce the dreaded brush marks, and will add a protective layer to the top of this chest?
Also, what about orange-peel effect in the paint? I can see this in my current project, but not sure what causes it. Am I applying the paint too thick? I have a random orbital polisher/sander and foam pads, and I have been told I can use automotive polishes and compounds to refine/smooth the final top coat. Will this tool be useful to remove the orange-peel or do I need to modify my painting techniques?
I took photos of the drawer faces to post with my question, but due to the semi-gloss paint I do not think the seams are visible in the photos. But they are easily visible with the naked eye.
What grits of sandpaper should I be using? I have 220#, 400#, and 600# wet/dry papers available which I use with a sanding block.
Sorry for the length of this post, but I wanted to provide as many details as possible.
Thanks in advance for any help I receive.
How to Hide Wood Seams in Bare Wood Furniture When Painting?
For interior wood it is not the end of the world that you chose wate-based paints and they are not the cause of your visible seams.
You do not need to strip the wood as you have primed and painted correctly, only that you are not happy with it visually.
If when you started painting the wood joints were perfectly flat then you simply need to add a couple more coats of paint.
Orange peel is usually applying the paint too thickly or adding further coats to early. To rectify this simply let the paint harden fully so it can be sanded down and all the suction in it has gone. When it is dry use a sanding block and some 180 grit paper ( adjust grade as necessary). Sand using the sanding block until the orange peel has all or virtually been levelled out.
Next time you paint, stretch the paint right out and apply several coats to compensate. I have done a lot of top work and I can make emulsion look like it has been sprayed on by overstretching the paint. That is the only way. One tip - get the paint on, stretch it out and move on - once paint hits the wood it starts to dry and therefore thicken - so you do not want to be going back over it as it thickens. How to Hide Wood Seams in Bare Wood Furniture When Painting?
Use wood putty then sand smooth. re-apply putty if neede then sand again
How to achieve a professional looking SMOOTH, glossy finish when painting wood?
I am planning on painting solid wood bookshelves. I would like to achieve a nice smooth shinny white finish. How do I accomplish this? The shelves were only finished originally with a coat or two of varnish or shellac. I have sanded w/sand paper %26amp; wiped them down with liquid sandpaper in preperation. I am planning on priming w/spray primer, BUT how do I paint w/finish coats of paint to achieve the above? I plan on using hi gloss paint. I repainted a wooden fireplace not long ago, but it did not turn our nice %26amp; smooth, nor as glossy as I would have wished. Also, should one sand in between each coat? How do you prevent paint build-up in the crevices where shelves meet side panels? Any advice would be appreciated.
Thank you.How to achieve a professional looking SMOOTH, glossy finish when painting wood?
you don't say if you are using brush or spray to paint if brushing buy a high quality brush Purdy comes to mind if spraying do not get anxious to finish, light coats than wait to dry you can lightly sand between coatsHow to achieve a professional looking SMOOTH, glossy finish when painting wood?
you could add a drop of petrol to the gloss paint , when you brush on with a decent paint brush , the petrol vapours evaporate through the paint removing brush marks , make sure you have plenty of ventilation . an old painter decorater showed me that trick and does work !
You will need to remove ALL the varnish or shellac prior to repainting, if you don't paint will not adhere to it very well. You are planning on using a spray primer? Why not use a paint you can spray as well. When spraying do it in a sweeping motion but not real heavy or the paint will run! You can also use a roller ( a sponge type roller) and brush the corners with a natural bristle paint brush. Its harder to get a smooth of finish that you are looking for when you use brushes and/or rollers. You should sand lightly in between coats with a 220 grit buffing pad.and use a tack cloth to wipe it down to remove any dust. Make sure the paint is completely dry before buffing. By buffing between coats the surface will be smoother which the results will be far better. What ever you do, do not use 20, 80 or even 140 grit sandpaper for buffing in between coats! The smaller the number of grit the coarser the sandpaper is.
as a former paint contractor, no mater what materials you use, and how careful you are, you cannot get good results without putting 75% of your efforts into the prep stage. I don't know what type wood you are working with here, but I can tell youo that it is too bad they already have a coat or more of varnish, as this sealed the pores of the wood, making it nearly impossible for the primer to adhere, and provising something for the paint itself to stick to.
If it were my project, and I couldn't run out and buy more raw wood, I believe I would get a chemical stripper and attack the top surfaces of each board. That and a paint scrapper should get the bulk of former finnish off. Then I would sand each board with a progressive succession of sandpaper, starting with maybe a 140 grit, then 80 and finnishing with something about 20 grit. Before priming, run a tack cloth over all surfaces. This will remove everything you don't want on the surface and it is very cheap. You can make you own, but for 50 cents a pop, it's not worth it. After making sure your surface is bone dry, prime. Not a spray primer, use a brush type acrylic interior latex, and have the primer tinted to the same color you plan on painting the shelving. Paint with the grain only and allow to dry well. Then it's time to paint. I would lightly sand the primer coat, again, only in the direction of the grain, and lightly, just to score tha surface, with your 20 grit paper. Then run your tack cloth over all again. Won't be perfectly smooth this time after your done, and that's just fine. Now you paint. A fairly heavy coat, with the grain, always. Let dry competely, several hours maybe. Then, you lightly sand that coat, tack it, wipe it, then paint again, a nice even uniform coat of a semi-gloss or high gloss if you prefer. Keep in a clean, dust-free area for a few hours and you shouuld have the look you desire.
OR
Hang the wood in the garage and go get a can of aerosol high-gloss enamel spray paint and try that.
Two methods, one takes work and gets results, one is fast and you take your chances.
Thank you.How to achieve a professional looking SMOOTH, glossy finish when painting wood?
you don't say if you are using brush or spray to paint if brushing buy a high quality brush Purdy comes to mind if spraying do not get anxious to finish, light coats than wait to dry you can lightly sand between coatsHow to achieve a professional looking SMOOTH, glossy finish when painting wood?
you could add a drop of petrol to the gloss paint , when you brush on with a decent paint brush , the petrol vapours evaporate through the paint removing brush marks , make sure you have plenty of ventilation . an old painter decorater showed me that trick and does work !
You will need to remove ALL the varnish or shellac prior to repainting, if you don't paint will not adhere to it very well. You are planning on using a spray primer? Why not use a paint you can spray as well. When spraying do it in a sweeping motion but not real heavy or the paint will run! You can also use a roller ( a sponge type roller) and brush the corners with a natural bristle paint brush. Its harder to get a smooth of finish that you are looking for when you use brushes and/or rollers. You should sand lightly in between coats with a 220 grit buffing pad.and use a tack cloth to wipe it down to remove any dust. Make sure the paint is completely dry before buffing. By buffing between coats the surface will be smoother which the results will be far better. What ever you do, do not use 20, 80 or even 140 grit sandpaper for buffing in between coats! The smaller the number of grit the coarser the sandpaper is.
as a former paint contractor, no mater what materials you use, and how careful you are, you cannot get good results without putting 75% of your efforts into the prep stage. I don't know what type wood you are working with here, but I can tell youo that it is too bad they already have a coat or more of varnish, as this sealed the pores of the wood, making it nearly impossible for the primer to adhere, and provising something for the paint itself to stick to.
If it were my project, and I couldn't run out and buy more raw wood, I believe I would get a chemical stripper and attack the top surfaces of each board. That and a paint scrapper should get the bulk of former finnish off. Then I would sand each board with a progressive succession of sandpaper, starting with maybe a 140 grit, then 80 and finnishing with something about 20 grit. Before priming, run a tack cloth over all surfaces. This will remove everything you don't want on the surface and it is very cheap. You can make you own, but for 50 cents a pop, it's not worth it. After making sure your surface is bone dry, prime. Not a spray primer, use a brush type acrylic interior latex, and have the primer tinted to the same color you plan on painting the shelving. Paint with the grain only and allow to dry well. Then it's time to paint. I would lightly sand the primer coat, again, only in the direction of the grain, and lightly, just to score tha surface, with your 20 grit paper. Then run your tack cloth over all again. Won't be perfectly smooth this time after your done, and that's just fine. Now you paint. A fairly heavy coat, with the grain, always. Let dry competely, several hours maybe. Then, you lightly sand that coat, tack it, wipe it, then paint again, a nice even uniform coat of a semi-gloss or high gloss if you prefer. Keep in a clean, dust-free area for a few hours and you shouuld have the look you desire.
OR
Hang the wood in the garage and go get a can of aerosol high-gloss enamel spray paint and try that.
Two methods, one takes work and gets results, one is fast and you take your chances.
How to clean painted wood flooring?
I just recently painted my living room floor a dark chocolate brown. It's been long enough I think for the paint to set. What should I use to clean the flooring?How to clean painted wood flooring?
Clean them thoroughly with warm water and TSP. I use a regular household mop, warm water and TSP. Clean again with plain water and let dry.
When your floors are clean and dry, make sure there are no paint chips or peeling that needs repair.
Depending on the environment I will use a water based sealer indoors and an oil based sealer for outdoors.How to clean painted wood flooring?
I d never use a mop and water on wood flooring. A light mist of a vinegar / water solution is all thats recommended on any wood floor. this so water and moisture doesn t get down in the flooring and ruin it.. I ve always suggested to my customers to use just a terri cloth head dust mop and go over them. GL
Bona Hardwood floor mop. Its gentle enough to use on it Im pretty sure... If you need more flooring cleaners for this there is a site:
http://www.findanyfloor.com/OnlineFloorS鈥?/a>
it has everything you could possibly ever need for cleaning floors!!1
Clean them thoroughly with warm water and TSP. I use a regular household mop, warm water and TSP. Clean again with plain water and let dry.
When your floors are clean and dry, make sure there are no paint chips or peeling that needs repair.
Depending on the environment I will use a water based sealer indoors and an oil based sealer for outdoors.How to clean painted wood flooring?
I d never use a mop and water on wood flooring. A light mist of a vinegar / water solution is all thats recommended on any wood floor. this so water and moisture doesn t get down in the flooring and ruin it.. I ve always suggested to my customers to use just a terri cloth head dust mop and go over them. GL
Bona Hardwood floor mop. Its gentle enough to use on it Im pretty sure... If you need more flooring cleaners for this there is a site:
http://www.findanyfloor.com/OnlineFloorS鈥?/a>
it has everything you could possibly ever need for cleaning floors!!1
How does a painting on a canvas go to a frame? Is taken off the wood first?
Please HelpHow does a painting on a canvas go to a frame? Is taken off the wood first?
I hope this answer is as much help to you as your answer was for me...How does a painting on a canvas go to a frame? Is taken off the wood first?
Nope that foot is a photograph taken by Helmut Newton, a famous photographer in the 60s/70s that pushed the limits of sexuality of the time...
No, it stays on the wooden stretcher frame, the whole thing fits into the outer frame. Usually the stretcher sits out the back a bit,being deeper, but that normal.myspace pages
I hope this answer is as much help to you as your answer was for me...How does a painting on a canvas go to a frame? Is taken off the wood first?
Nope that foot is a photograph taken by Helmut Newton, a famous photographer in the 60s/70s that pushed the limits of sexuality of the time...
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No, it stays on the wooden stretcher frame, the whole thing fits into the outer frame. Usually the stretcher sits out the back a bit,being deeper, but that normal.
How can I bring a painted white A-Frame ceiling back to the natural wood?
Make sure that the wood was a decent quality first. It might have been painted because it was simply terrible to look at.
Otherwise, scrape, sand and then stain.How can I bring a painted white A-Frame ceiling back to the natural wood?
You might not be able to get the paint all the way off without using a chemical stripper, which would be kind of dangerous, since it would probably drip down on you. And, it's very corrosive. Another option might be to put up a wood veneer over the painted wood. These can be expensive, but you can find them at better lumber stores or on line.
Here's a place that has all kinds of veneers available: http://www.oakwoodveneer.com/products.ht鈥?/a>
Note that they're anywhere from $3 a square foot to over $15 a square foot, depending on how exotic a wood you get.
Otherwise, scrape, sand and then stain.How can I bring a painted white A-Frame ceiling back to the natural wood?
You might not be able to get the paint all the way off without using a chemical stripper, which would be kind of dangerous, since it would probably drip down on you. And, it's very corrosive. Another option might be to put up a wood veneer over the painted wood. These can be expensive, but you can find them at better lumber stores or on line.
Here's a place that has all kinds of veneers available: http://www.oakwoodveneer.com/products.ht鈥?/a>
Note that they're anywhere from $3 a square foot to over $15 a square foot, depending on how exotic a wood you get.
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