Once you sand them, you can either restain them another color or paint them. Once you have the boxes the base color you desire, mix one part white glue with one part water. You can also buy Mod Podge in either a matte or gloss finish. Mist the image you wish to decoupage with water (to avoid bubbles) and then paint the decoupage medium on the back of the image. Smooth out the image to remove wrinkles or bubbles, a credit card or brayer works well to do this. Allow the images to thorughly dry and apply at least 3-5 more coats of decoupage medium. You may need to lightly sand or steel wool in between coats to remove the brush strokes. Once you have the desired number of coats, seal the entire item with two coats of a non-yellowing polyurethane.We are sanding wood cigar boxes and then wood like to painting them and decoupage how do we go about doing thi
google search decoupage instructions
Thursday, February 25, 2010
How do you prepare interior wood paneling to be painted?
You need to sand it to give it some tooth for the paint to adhere to it. RoxanneHow do you prepare interior wood paneling to be painted?
To expand on Roxanne's answer, you first need to was the paneling with TSP and water.
The TSP (TriSodium Phosphate) will remove the grease and dirt that's built up over the years.
THEN you sand it lightly with 80 or 100 grit sandpaper to give it more ';tooth.';
Using damp cloths, remove all the sanding dust.
The sanding is necessary to cut into the clear finish which is on the paneling.
Your first coat should be a latex primer, then the next coat (or two) will be indoor water-based latex. ( it doesn't have much of an odour...)
You may also opt for a latex ';intumescent'; paint, which is both paint and a fire retardant, and it works quite nicely.How do you prepare interior wood paneling to be painted?
If they are new, just fine sandpaper - undercoat - then gloss.
If they are used a bit grimey use sugar soap, fine sandpaper then gloss. Sugarsoap will get rid of greasy finger marks and grimed in dirt.
I painted the paneling in my living room. And just prepped by cleaning with TSP. That paneling in there was more porous/not shiny than allot of panelling. And I did not use a primer on it first.
To expand on Roxanne's answer, you first need to was the paneling with TSP and water.
The TSP (TriSodium Phosphate) will remove the grease and dirt that's built up over the years.
THEN you sand it lightly with 80 or 100 grit sandpaper to give it more ';tooth.';
Using damp cloths, remove all the sanding dust.
The sanding is necessary to cut into the clear finish which is on the paneling.
Your first coat should be a latex primer, then the next coat (or two) will be indoor water-based latex. ( it doesn't have much of an odour...)
You may also opt for a latex ';intumescent'; paint, which is both paint and a fire retardant, and it works quite nicely.How do you prepare interior wood paneling to be painted?
If they are new, just fine sandpaper - undercoat - then gloss.
If they are used a bit grimey use sugar soap, fine sandpaper then gloss. Sugarsoap will get rid of greasy finger marks and grimed in dirt.
I painted the paneling in my living room. And just prepped by cleaning with TSP. That paneling in there was more porous/not shiny than allot of panelling. And I did not use a primer on it first.
How to Hide Wood Seams in Bare Wood Furniture When Painting?
I purchased a piece of bare wood furniture (Aspen) for my child's room which I wanted to paint using a Nemo (the movie) color scheme. I first cleaned and light sanded the drawer faces, then I primed them using water based Behr Undercoat %26amp; Sealer.
I light sanded after the primer dried and proceeded to apply the finish coats using Behr water based semi-gloss enamel. I applied a couple of coats using a foam roller in order to achieve a relatively smooth finish without brush marks. I light sanded between top coats, and the overall finish is fairly smooth, however I can see where the pieces of wood were glued together to form the drawer face. Why are these visible? Did the paint soak into these areas or did I not sand the wood enough?
I am not sure what I did wrong, and what I need to do to correct this flaw. I was disappointed in the outcome and put this project aside, but I need to resume work on the project and get this completed.
At this point I need to know how I could have avoided this issue, and then what I need to do to correct it. Do I need to strip or sand the drawer faces back to bare wood, or can I prime over the top coat and start over?
I know some experts recommend oil-based paints, but due to the fact that I have already purchased these Disney colored paints I would like to use them if at all possible. I painted another similar Aspen chest of drawers for my other child and I did not seem to have this problem, at least it was not as obvious.
I chose the semi-gloss for durability, since this will be used in a child's room. To add protection to the top, I used a spray on Helmsman Spar Urethane. It seems to be holding up well so far. Are there better options which are easy to use for a novice, do not produce the dreaded brush marks, and will add a protective layer to the top of this chest?
Also, what about orange-peel effect in the paint? I can see this in my current project, but not sure what causes it. Am I applying the paint too thick? I have a random orbital polisher/sander and foam pads, and I have been told I can use automotive polishes and compounds to refine/smooth the final top coat. Will this tool be useful to remove the orange-peel or do I need to modify my painting techniques?
I took photos of the drawer faces to post with my question, but due to the semi-gloss paint I do not think the seams are visible in the photos. But they are easily visible with the naked eye.
What grits of sandpaper should I be using? I have 220#, 400#, and 600# wet/dry papers available which I use with a sanding block.
Sorry for the length of this post, but I wanted to provide as many details as possible.
Thanks in advance for any help I receive.
How to Hide Wood Seams in Bare Wood Furniture When Painting?
For interior wood it is not the end of the world that you chose wate-based paints and they are not the cause of your visible seams.
You do not need to strip the wood as you have primed and painted correctly, only that you are not happy with it visually.
If when you started painting the wood joints were perfectly flat then you simply need to add a couple more coats of paint.
Orange peel is usually applying the paint too thickly or adding further coats to early. To rectify this simply let the paint harden fully so it can be sanded down and all the suction in it has gone. When it is dry use a sanding block and some 180 grit paper ( adjust grade as necessary). Sand using the sanding block until the orange peel has all or virtually been levelled out.
Next time you paint, stretch the paint right out and apply several coats to compensate. I have done a lot of top work and I can make emulsion look like it has been sprayed on by overstretching the paint. That is the only way. One tip - get the paint on, stretch it out and move on - once paint hits the wood it starts to dry and therefore thicken - so you do not want to be going back over it as it thickens. How to Hide Wood Seams in Bare Wood Furniture When Painting?
Use wood putty then sand smooth. re-apply putty if neede then sand again
I light sanded after the primer dried and proceeded to apply the finish coats using Behr water based semi-gloss enamel. I applied a couple of coats using a foam roller in order to achieve a relatively smooth finish without brush marks. I light sanded between top coats, and the overall finish is fairly smooth, however I can see where the pieces of wood were glued together to form the drawer face. Why are these visible? Did the paint soak into these areas or did I not sand the wood enough?
I am not sure what I did wrong, and what I need to do to correct this flaw. I was disappointed in the outcome and put this project aside, but I need to resume work on the project and get this completed.
At this point I need to know how I could have avoided this issue, and then what I need to do to correct it. Do I need to strip or sand the drawer faces back to bare wood, or can I prime over the top coat and start over?
I know some experts recommend oil-based paints, but due to the fact that I have already purchased these Disney colored paints I would like to use them if at all possible. I painted another similar Aspen chest of drawers for my other child and I did not seem to have this problem, at least it was not as obvious.
I chose the semi-gloss for durability, since this will be used in a child's room. To add protection to the top, I used a spray on Helmsman Spar Urethane. It seems to be holding up well so far. Are there better options which are easy to use for a novice, do not produce the dreaded brush marks, and will add a protective layer to the top of this chest?
Also, what about orange-peel effect in the paint? I can see this in my current project, but not sure what causes it. Am I applying the paint too thick? I have a random orbital polisher/sander and foam pads, and I have been told I can use automotive polishes and compounds to refine/smooth the final top coat. Will this tool be useful to remove the orange-peel or do I need to modify my painting techniques?
I took photos of the drawer faces to post with my question, but due to the semi-gloss paint I do not think the seams are visible in the photos. But they are easily visible with the naked eye.
What grits of sandpaper should I be using? I have 220#, 400#, and 600# wet/dry papers available which I use with a sanding block.
Sorry for the length of this post, but I wanted to provide as many details as possible.
Thanks in advance for any help I receive.
How to Hide Wood Seams in Bare Wood Furniture When Painting?
For interior wood it is not the end of the world that you chose wate-based paints and they are not the cause of your visible seams.
You do not need to strip the wood as you have primed and painted correctly, only that you are not happy with it visually.
If when you started painting the wood joints were perfectly flat then you simply need to add a couple more coats of paint.
Orange peel is usually applying the paint too thickly or adding further coats to early. To rectify this simply let the paint harden fully so it can be sanded down and all the suction in it has gone. When it is dry use a sanding block and some 180 grit paper ( adjust grade as necessary). Sand using the sanding block until the orange peel has all or virtually been levelled out.
Next time you paint, stretch the paint right out and apply several coats to compensate. I have done a lot of top work and I can make emulsion look like it has been sprayed on by overstretching the paint. That is the only way. One tip - get the paint on, stretch it out and move on - once paint hits the wood it starts to dry and therefore thicken - so you do not want to be going back over it as it thickens. How to Hide Wood Seams in Bare Wood Furniture When Painting?
Use wood putty then sand smooth. re-apply putty if neede then sand again
How to achieve a professional looking SMOOTH, glossy finish when painting wood?
I am planning on painting solid wood bookshelves. I would like to achieve a nice smooth shinny white finish. How do I accomplish this? The shelves were only finished originally with a coat or two of varnish or shellac. I have sanded w/sand paper %26amp; wiped them down with liquid sandpaper in preperation. I am planning on priming w/spray primer, BUT how do I paint w/finish coats of paint to achieve the above? I plan on using hi gloss paint. I repainted a wooden fireplace not long ago, but it did not turn our nice %26amp; smooth, nor as glossy as I would have wished. Also, should one sand in between each coat? How do you prevent paint build-up in the crevices where shelves meet side panels? Any advice would be appreciated.
Thank you.How to achieve a professional looking SMOOTH, glossy finish when painting wood?
you don't say if you are using brush or spray to paint if brushing buy a high quality brush Purdy comes to mind if spraying do not get anxious to finish, light coats than wait to dry you can lightly sand between coatsHow to achieve a professional looking SMOOTH, glossy finish when painting wood?
you could add a drop of petrol to the gloss paint , when you brush on with a decent paint brush , the petrol vapours evaporate through the paint removing brush marks , make sure you have plenty of ventilation . an old painter decorater showed me that trick and does work !
You will need to remove ALL the varnish or shellac prior to repainting, if you don't paint will not adhere to it very well. You are planning on using a spray primer? Why not use a paint you can spray as well. When spraying do it in a sweeping motion but not real heavy or the paint will run! You can also use a roller ( a sponge type roller) and brush the corners with a natural bristle paint brush. Its harder to get a smooth of finish that you are looking for when you use brushes and/or rollers. You should sand lightly in between coats with a 220 grit buffing pad.and use a tack cloth to wipe it down to remove any dust. Make sure the paint is completely dry before buffing. By buffing between coats the surface will be smoother which the results will be far better. What ever you do, do not use 20, 80 or even 140 grit sandpaper for buffing in between coats! The smaller the number of grit the coarser the sandpaper is.
as a former paint contractor, no mater what materials you use, and how careful you are, you cannot get good results without putting 75% of your efforts into the prep stage. I don't know what type wood you are working with here, but I can tell youo that it is too bad they already have a coat or more of varnish, as this sealed the pores of the wood, making it nearly impossible for the primer to adhere, and provising something for the paint itself to stick to.
If it were my project, and I couldn't run out and buy more raw wood, I believe I would get a chemical stripper and attack the top surfaces of each board. That and a paint scrapper should get the bulk of former finnish off. Then I would sand each board with a progressive succession of sandpaper, starting with maybe a 140 grit, then 80 and finnishing with something about 20 grit. Before priming, run a tack cloth over all surfaces. This will remove everything you don't want on the surface and it is very cheap. You can make you own, but for 50 cents a pop, it's not worth it. After making sure your surface is bone dry, prime. Not a spray primer, use a brush type acrylic interior latex, and have the primer tinted to the same color you plan on painting the shelving. Paint with the grain only and allow to dry well. Then it's time to paint. I would lightly sand the primer coat, again, only in the direction of the grain, and lightly, just to score tha surface, with your 20 grit paper. Then run your tack cloth over all again. Won't be perfectly smooth this time after your done, and that's just fine. Now you paint. A fairly heavy coat, with the grain, always. Let dry competely, several hours maybe. Then, you lightly sand that coat, tack it, wipe it, then paint again, a nice even uniform coat of a semi-gloss or high gloss if you prefer. Keep in a clean, dust-free area for a few hours and you shouuld have the look you desire.
OR
Hang the wood in the garage and go get a can of aerosol high-gloss enamel spray paint and try that.
Two methods, one takes work and gets results, one is fast and you take your chances.
Thank you.How to achieve a professional looking SMOOTH, glossy finish when painting wood?
you don't say if you are using brush or spray to paint if brushing buy a high quality brush Purdy comes to mind if spraying do not get anxious to finish, light coats than wait to dry you can lightly sand between coatsHow to achieve a professional looking SMOOTH, glossy finish when painting wood?
you could add a drop of petrol to the gloss paint , when you brush on with a decent paint brush , the petrol vapours evaporate through the paint removing brush marks , make sure you have plenty of ventilation . an old painter decorater showed me that trick and does work !
You will need to remove ALL the varnish or shellac prior to repainting, if you don't paint will not adhere to it very well. You are planning on using a spray primer? Why not use a paint you can spray as well. When spraying do it in a sweeping motion but not real heavy or the paint will run! You can also use a roller ( a sponge type roller) and brush the corners with a natural bristle paint brush. Its harder to get a smooth of finish that you are looking for when you use brushes and/or rollers. You should sand lightly in between coats with a 220 grit buffing pad.and use a tack cloth to wipe it down to remove any dust. Make sure the paint is completely dry before buffing. By buffing between coats the surface will be smoother which the results will be far better. What ever you do, do not use 20, 80 or even 140 grit sandpaper for buffing in between coats! The smaller the number of grit the coarser the sandpaper is.
as a former paint contractor, no mater what materials you use, and how careful you are, you cannot get good results without putting 75% of your efforts into the prep stage. I don't know what type wood you are working with here, but I can tell youo that it is too bad they already have a coat or more of varnish, as this sealed the pores of the wood, making it nearly impossible for the primer to adhere, and provising something for the paint itself to stick to.
If it were my project, and I couldn't run out and buy more raw wood, I believe I would get a chemical stripper and attack the top surfaces of each board. That and a paint scrapper should get the bulk of former finnish off. Then I would sand each board with a progressive succession of sandpaper, starting with maybe a 140 grit, then 80 and finnishing with something about 20 grit. Before priming, run a tack cloth over all surfaces. This will remove everything you don't want on the surface and it is very cheap. You can make you own, but for 50 cents a pop, it's not worth it. After making sure your surface is bone dry, prime. Not a spray primer, use a brush type acrylic interior latex, and have the primer tinted to the same color you plan on painting the shelving. Paint with the grain only and allow to dry well. Then it's time to paint. I would lightly sand the primer coat, again, only in the direction of the grain, and lightly, just to score tha surface, with your 20 grit paper. Then run your tack cloth over all again. Won't be perfectly smooth this time after your done, and that's just fine. Now you paint. A fairly heavy coat, with the grain, always. Let dry competely, several hours maybe. Then, you lightly sand that coat, tack it, wipe it, then paint again, a nice even uniform coat of a semi-gloss or high gloss if you prefer. Keep in a clean, dust-free area for a few hours and you shouuld have the look you desire.
OR
Hang the wood in the garage and go get a can of aerosol high-gloss enamel spray paint and try that.
Two methods, one takes work and gets results, one is fast and you take your chances.
How to clean painted wood flooring?
I just recently painted my living room floor a dark chocolate brown. It's been long enough I think for the paint to set. What should I use to clean the flooring?How to clean painted wood flooring?
Clean them thoroughly with warm water and TSP. I use a regular household mop, warm water and TSP. Clean again with plain water and let dry.
When your floors are clean and dry, make sure there are no paint chips or peeling that needs repair.
Depending on the environment I will use a water based sealer indoors and an oil based sealer for outdoors.How to clean painted wood flooring?
I d never use a mop and water on wood flooring. A light mist of a vinegar / water solution is all thats recommended on any wood floor. this so water and moisture doesn t get down in the flooring and ruin it.. I ve always suggested to my customers to use just a terri cloth head dust mop and go over them. GL
Bona Hardwood floor mop. Its gentle enough to use on it Im pretty sure... If you need more flooring cleaners for this there is a site:
http://www.findanyfloor.com/OnlineFloorS鈥?/a>
it has everything you could possibly ever need for cleaning floors!!1
Clean them thoroughly with warm water and TSP. I use a regular household mop, warm water and TSP. Clean again with plain water and let dry.
When your floors are clean and dry, make sure there are no paint chips or peeling that needs repair.
Depending on the environment I will use a water based sealer indoors and an oil based sealer for outdoors.How to clean painted wood flooring?
I d never use a mop and water on wood flooring. A light mist of a vinegar / water solution is all thats recommended on any wood floor. this so water and moisture doesn t get down in the flooring and ruin it.. I ve always suggested to my customers to use just a terri cloth head dust mop and go over them. GL
Bona Hardwood floor mop. Its gentle enough to use on it Im pretty sure... If you need more flooring cleaners for this there is a site:
http://www.findanyfloor.com/OnlineFloorS鈥?/a>
it has everything you could possibly ever need for cleaning floors!!1
How does a painting on a canvas go to a frame? Is taken off the wood first?
Please HelpHow does a painting on a canvas go to a frame? Is taken off the wood first?
I hope this answer is as much help to you as your answer was for me...How does a painting on a canvas go to a frame? Is taken off the wood first?
Nope that foot is a photograph taken by Helmut Newton, a famous photographer in the 60s/70s that pushed the limits of sexuality of the time...
No, it stays on the wooden stretcher frame, the whole thing fits into the outer frame. Usually the stretcher sits out the back a bit,being deeper, but that normal.myspace pages
I hope this answer is as much help to you as your answer was for me...How does a painting on a canvas go to a frame? Is taken off the wood first?
Nope that foot is a photograph taken by Helmut Newton, a famous photographer in the 60s/70s that pushed the limits of sexuality of the time...
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No, it stays on the wooden stretcher frame, the whole thing fits into the outer frame. Usually the stretcher sits out the back a bit,being deeper, but that normal.
How can I bring a painted white A-Frame ceiling back to the natural wood?
Make sure that the wood was a decent quality first. It might have been painted because it was simply terrible to look at.
Otherwise, scrape, sand and then stain.How can I bring a painted white A-Frame ceiling back to the natural wood?
You might not be able to get the paint all the way off without using a chemical stripper, which would be kind of dangerous, since it would probably drip down on you. And, it's very corrosive. Another option might be to put up a wood veneer over the painted wood. These can be expensive, but you can find them at better lumber stores or on line.
Here's a place that has all kinds of veneers available: http://www.oakwoodveneer.com/products.ht鈥?/a>
Note that they're anywhere from $3 a square foot to over $15 a square foot, depending on how exotic a wood you get.
Otherwise, scrape, sand and then stain.How can I bring a painted white A-Frame ceiling back to the natural wood?
You might not be able to get the paint all the way off without using a chemical stripper, which would be kind of dangerous, since it would probably drip down on you. And, it's very corrosive. Another option might be to put up a wood veneer over the painted wood. These can be expensive, but you can find them at better lumber stores or on line.
Here's a place that has all kinds of veneers available: http://www.oakwoodveneer.com/products.ht鈥?/a>
Note that they're anywhere from $3 a square foot to over $15 a square foot, depending on how exotic a wood you get.
How to seal an acrylic painted wood birdhouse?
My son used acrylic craft paint to decorate a cedar wood birdhouse for his dad for Father's Day. It turned out really cute and I need help knowing how to seal the birdhouse so we will be able to hang it outside for the birds to, hopefully, use.
I've used Thompson wood sealer on outdoor wood furniture but that has to be repeated every year. So, I'm concerned that that particular sealer will wear off and ruin the paint job over time.
The poly I have is for indoor use only. Is there poly that works for outdoor use that will do a good job of preserving my sons paint job and stand the test of time outdoors too?
Thanks for your help! =)
Happy Father's Day to all you DADS!How to seal an acrylic painted wood birdhouse?
I would recommend you go to your local paint store. They will help you get the right product for this project. Let them know about the Thompson Waterseal issue and they can take you to a better product.
I've used Thompson wood sealer on outdoor wood furniture but that has to be repeated every year. So, I'm concerned that that particular sealer will wear off and ruin the paint job over time.
The poly I have is for indoor use only. Is there poly that works for outdoor use that will do a good job of preserving my sons paint job and stand the test of time outdoors too?
Thanks for your help! =)
Happy Father's Day to all you DADS!How to seal an acrylic painted wood birdhouse?
I would recommend you go to your local paint store. They will help you get the right product for this project. Let them know about the Thompson Waterseal issue and they can take you to a better product.
Want to frame a painting 2ft by 1ft6in how many feet of wood will need to frame?
It depends on the size of the wood you use for framing.
The picture is 7' around, but you need to add on for the size of the wood so the corners will be right. 8' might not be enough. I would get 10' just so you are sure to have enough to make the corners, and to allow for errors in the miter cuts.Want to frame a painting 2ft by 1ft6in how many feet of wood will need to frame?
7' if you're feeling perfect in your cuts, but I'd add a little bit extra ( a few inches ) just to make sure of covering potential mistakes. At 8' you should be fine.
The picture is 7' around, but you need to add on for the size of the wood so the corners will be right. 8' might not be enough. I would get 10' just so you are sure to have enough to make the corners, and to allow for errors in the miter cuts.Want to frame a painting 2ft by 1ft6in how many feet of wood will need to frame?
7' if you're feeling perfect in your cuts, but I'd add a little bit extra ( a few inches ) just to make sure of covering potential mistakes. At 8' you should be fine.
Tuesday, February 23, 2010
Does anyone know how to remove old glue from a painted wooded table? I need some advice .?
It looks like someone did Ia good repair but got very sloppy and it is found everywhere. I think the glue is a wood glue type being that it is on a wooden table. But the table is a 1930's kitchen table and I don't know how long ago the repair was done.Does anyone know how to remove old glue from a painted wooded table? I need some advice .?
Try getting some ';goof off'; at a paint store and start with small amounts like with a que tip and soften glue to where you can eventually cut it with a knife or putty knife etc . I am assuming you are trying to keep your finish as best as you can on the wood?Does anyone know how to remove old glue from a painted wooded table? I need some advice .?
If you're planning to repaint it, just sand it off.
mineral spirits
Try getting some ';goof off'; at a paint store and start with small amounts like with a que tip and soften glue to where you can eventually cut it with a knife or putty knife etc . I am assuming you are trying to keep your finish as best as you can on the wood?Does anyone know how to remove old glue from a painted wooded table? I need some advice .?
If you're planning to repaint it, just sand it off.
mineral spirits
Looking for How-To's to make pictures using nails hammered into wood & then painting nail heads like flowers.
The nails are hammered in at different depths. Use nails with different size heads. Some are painted to make a flower on 1 head, others use several heads to make 1 flower.Looking for How-To's to make pictures using nails hammered into wood %26amp; then painting nail heads like flowers.
I did similar work in the ninetees but with screws. I liked the look of it and sold some of them. What I did was I used plywood 3/4 thick and screwed the screws in in different shapes and then painted shapes around them and also painted the heads different colors and left some heads exposed . the screws come in different colors too. I used acrylic paint and gel midium for sheen.
good luckLooking for How-To's to make pictures using nails hammered into wood %26amp; then painting nail heads like flowers.
Try Michaels or any local arts %26amp; crafts store. Michaels lets you order on-line.
not sure,
not too many nails heads are large enough to paint a whole flower on,
sounds like a very unique craft
may need to check local library how to books,
searching....
http://hergarden.cafe24.com/tt/index.php…
http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/G%C3%BCnthe…
paint the picture on a firm but flexible paper first with something like oil paint, hammer the nails into the board without paint, then press the paper paint-side down onto the nails. If the paper's flexible enough, you should be able to ';print'; it onto the nails. It may not get some of the lower ones, but you can always re-paint those based on the marks on the picture. Also, it will come out reversed, so paint words as a mirror image.
try some colorful cardboard to make the petal use tackey glue, super glue or fabric paint to hold the petal on the nail
I did similar work in the ninetees but with screws. I liked the look of it and sold some of them. What I did was I used plywood 3/4 thick and screwed the screws in in different shapes and then painted shapes around them and also painted the heads different colors and left some heads exposed . the screws come in different colors too. I used acrylic paint and gel midium for sheen.
good luckLooking for How-To's to make pictures using nails hammered into wood %26amp; then painting nail heads like flowers.
Try Michaels or any local arts %26amp; crafts store. Michaels lets you order on-line.
not sure,
not too many nails heads are large enough to paint a whole flower on,
sounds like a very unique craft
may need to check local library how to books,
searching....
http://hergarden.cafe24.com/tt/index.php…
http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/G%C3%BCnthe…
paint the picture on a firm but flexible paper first with something like oil paint, hammer the nails into the board without paint, then press the paper paint-side down onto the nails. If the paper's flexible enough, you should be able to ';print'; it onto the nails. It may not get some of the lower ones, but you can always re-paint those based on the marks on the picture. Also, it will come out reversed, so paint words as a mirror image.
try some colorful cardboard to make the petal use tackey glue, super glue or fabric paint to hold the petal on the nail
How to remove dried egg and shells from painted wood, steel garage door, cement?
A power washer might be your best bet.How to remove dried egg and shells from painted wood, steel garage door, cement?
The dried egg can be removed by first soaking the area with normal room temperature water. This will loosen the layers of egg and shell. Next step is to mop the area using soft fabric or sponge. Try not to rub it hard to peal the egg. This needs to be repeated in several rounds depending on how thick the layer of egg is. You can use very mild detergent but avoid if you are concerned about the paint color change. I wouldn't use hot water especially on painted surfaces. It might be ok to use warm water or detergent on cement. Again depends on where the cement is. If it is the driveway, its perfectly ok to use warm water and mild detergent.
Power wash is ok if the egg is on the siding / brick / cement or asphalt driveway or garage door. Even with power wash I would recommend mild soaking round of wash first and then follow up with a little stronger stream.How to remove dried egg and shells from painted wood, steel garage door, cement?
I would try a bucket of hot soapy water, a sponge and or scrub brush! If i had a power washer available I'd use that.
Take a flat head screwdriver and get to work.
W TF are there egg shells there anyway?myspace pages
The dried egg can be removed by first soaking the area with normal room temperature water. This will loosen the layers of egg and shell. Next step is to mop the area using soft fabric or sponge. Try not to rub it hard to peal the egg. This needs to be repeated in several rounds depending on how thick the layer of egg is. You can use very mild detergent but avoid if you are concerned about the paint color change. I wouldn't use hot water especially on painted surfaces. It might be ok to use warm water or detergent on cement. Again depends on where the cement is. If it is the driveway, its perfectly ok to use warm water and mild detergent.
Power wash is ok if the egg is on the siding / brick / cement or asphalt driveway or garage door. Even with power wash I would recommend mild soaking round of wash first and then follow up with a little stronger stream.How to remove dried egg and shells from painted wood, steel garage door, cement?
I would try a bucket of hot soapy water, a sponge and or scrub brush! If i had a power washer available I'd use that.
Take a flat head screwdriver and get to work.
W TF are there egg shells there anyway?
How do i get painted beams in living room back to original wood?
emulsion painted over gloss i think someone suggested sand blasting but couldnt stand the mess in living room any ideasHow do i get painted beams in living room back to original wood?
You'll require lots of methylene chloride based paint remover and a scraper. This is an expensive method and messy and you'll have to be careful that the paint remover does not get on your other furniture or walls or anything else for that matter.
The other method is to employ a heat gun and a scraper.
This method is also labourious but much more efficient than using paint remover. Use the heat gun like you would use a hair dryer. It requires minimal contact with the painted surface to remove the paint. As soon as the paint wrinkles, lift it off with the scraper. Please do not use the heat gun on your hair. Also watch out for your skin, it can burn your skin off.
Blasting it with sand or water, is very messy.
Whichever method you employ, in the end, you will have to sand paper the exposed wood before varnishing or staining.
So you might as well clear out the living room and cover the floor with newspaper. Once done, be sure to vacuum the walls to remove dust.
good luckHow do i get painted beams in living room back to original wood?
I don't think youcan do it with out a mess, as stated above stripper and elbow grease, or maby try a sander...
All of the above plus goggles especially if using Nitromoors stripper - It's brill....
the only way is sandblasting im afraid if u want them back to there glory...as for the mess i think anyone would choose that rather than the tedious slow task of stripping then sanding..if u still dont like idea there r some paint and grain effect paints that if done correctly look pretty good..ur choice ur money and time!! good luck!!
you could nitromoors them but very messy, i would use a blow torch like thing that you can get to blister the paint then scrape off
heat gun is best done with a specialised scraper and some wire wool.
you will need a paint stripper and a scraper,and lots of elbow grease.
you wont get them back without Sand d blasting ..some of their methods today are not as bad as they used to be
With great difficulty, other than burning off, what about boxing them in with real wood ?
yes that's the only way but the mess is not all that great if done by a professional thats part of the trade
There are several good pastes on the market for precisely this situation.
They're a bit expensive, though.
Hire a contractor to do it----take a week off and go on vacation and when you get back, VOILA, natural wood beams and you don't have to do a thing, smell a thing or clean a thing....
You'll require lots of methylene chloride based paint remover and a scraper. This is an expensive method and messy and you'll have to be careful that the paint remover does not get on your other furniture or walls or anything else for that matter.
The other method is to employ a heat gun and a scraper.
This method is also labourious but much more efficient than using paint remover. Use the heat gun like you would use a hair dryer. It requires minimal contact with the painted surface to remove the paint. As soon as the paint wrinkles, lift it off with the scraper. Please do not use the heat gun on your hair. Also watch out for your skin, it can burn your skin off.
Blasting it with sand or water, is very messy.
Whichever method you employ, in the end, you will have to sand paper the exposed wood before varnishing or staining.
So you might as well clear out the living room and cover the floor with newspaper. Once done, be sure to vacuum the walls to remove dust.
good luckHow do i get painted beams in living room back to original wood?
I don't think youcan do it with out a mess, as stated above stripper and elbow grease, or maby try a sander...
All of the above plus goggles especially if using Nitromoors stripper - It's brill....
the only way is sandblasting im afraid if u want them back to there glory...as for the mess i think anyone would choose that rather than the tedious slow task of stripping then sanding..if u still dont like idea there r some paint and grain effect paints that if done correctly look pretty good..ur choice ur money and time!! good luck!!
you could nitromoors them but very messy, i would use a blow torch like thing that you can get to blister the paint then scrape off
heat gun is best done with a specialised scraper and some wire wool.
you will need a paint stripper and a scraper,and lots of elbow grease.
you wont get them back without Sand d blasting ..some of their methods today are not as bad as they used to be
With great difficulty, other than burning off, what about boxing them in with real wood ?
yes that's the only way but the mess is not all that great if done by a professional thats part of the trade
There are several good pastes on the market for precisely this situation.
They're a bit expensive, though.
Hire a contractor to do it----take a week off and go on vacation and when you get back, VOILA, natural wood beams and you don't have to do a thing, smell a thing or clean a thing....
How do I attach an oil painting to a wood frame without using the clips?
Screw offsets into the back of the frame, or a bent nail.How do I attach an oil painting to a wood frame without using the clips?
You can staple strips of canvas across the corners of the stretcher bars and to the back of the frame.How do I attach an oil painting to a wood frame without using the clips?
if the frame has a lip (the part that covers the front edge of the canvas, just aim a staple gun diagonally so the staple hits the canvas stretcher and the frame. if the frame has no lip, hammer some very thin nails throught the frame and into the stretcher
Can't understand why you'd want to. If you are making the frame then make the canvas an interference fit so no glue or clips required.
You can staple strips of canvas across the corners of the stretcher bars and to the back of the frame.How do I attach an oil painting to a wood frame without using the clips?
if the frame has a lip (the part that covers the front edge of the canvas, just aim a staple gun diagonally so the staple hits the canvas stretcher and the frame. if the frame has no lip, hammer some very thin nails throught the frame and into the stretcher
Can't understand why you'd want to. If you are making the frame then make the canvas an interference fit so no glue or clips required.
How to prevent latex paint from chipping off of wood furniture?
I have a piece of Ikea furniture that i recently painted. Its wood veneer, and i gave it a light sanding (very light, since i didn't want to sand THROUGH the veneer) wiped off the dust with a damp cloth, let the boards dry, and then applied 2-3 coats of latex semi-gloss paint. Now after the piece has dried for 2 days, i'm noticing that its peeling/chipping very very easily. Basically any somewhat pointy object that it comes in contact with will peel off some of the paint. I've done some more web research and found that apparently the paint didn't adhere completely -- i guess i should have used a primer or sanded more thoroughly.
Since i don't want to sand the thing down and start over, is there anything i can apply OVER the latex to minimize the peeling? Its a very large piece, so i would prefer to use something that i can use a paint roller to apply, rather than a paintbrush. Thanks!How to prevent latex paint from chipping off of wood furniture?
try primer--it helps paint adhere and if it is a darker veneer or color can also keep from bleeding through a lighter color. On decorating shows, I have seen them use special primer to paint on paneling, so just ask paint\hardware store the kind of primer that you need.How to prevent latex paint from chipping off of wood furniture?
Don't scratch it. I find even when using primer as soon as you scratch it.. it comes off.. It's annoying to me. I have been known to use exterior paint indoors because its stronger.
No. No matter what you do now, the paint will continue to peel off and or chip. Your paint is not adhering...It is like trying to paint a candle...no matter what you do...you will not be happy. Woulda, coulda shoulda...lightly sanded, and apply a whit shellac primer, such as ';bullseye'; or Zinnzer..
you should have started by useing a liquid deglosser like peso to remove slick laquer , but since its to late for that, just go buy some spray cans of polyurathane in whatever sheen you want and spray it 2 or 3 coats. spray a spot on an out of the way place first to make sure it dosent react to the latex
If it's peeling/chipping already and is noticeable, why would you want to put a sealant on now?
Sometimes we can't find an easy fix, at least I can't. Must be my luck.
Do it right and start over.
Since i don't want to sand the thing down and start over, is there anything i can apply OVER the latex to minimize the peeling? Its a very large piece, so i would prefer to use something that i can use a paint roller to apply, rather than a paintbrush. Thanks!How to prevent latex paint from chipping off of wood furniture?
try primer--it helps paint adhere and if it is a darker veneer or color can also keep from bleeding through a lighter color. On decorating shows, I have seen them use special primer to paint on paneling, so just ask paint\hardware store the kind of primer that you need.How to prevent latex paint from chipping off of wood furniture?
Don't scratch it. I find even when using primer as soon as you scratch it.. it comes off.. It's annoying to me. I have been known to use exterior paint indoors because its stronger.
No. No matter what you do now, the paint will continue to peel off and or chip. Your paint is not adhering...It is like trying to paint a candle...no matter what you do...you will not be happy. Woulda, coulda shoulda...lightly sanded, and apply a whit shellac primer, such as ';bullseye'; or Zinnzer..
you should have started by useing a liquid deglosser like peso to remove slick laquer , but since its to late for that, just go buy some spray cans of polyurathane in whatever sheen you want and spray it 2 or 3 coats. spray a spot on an out of the way place first to make sure it dosent react to the latex
If it's peeling/chipping already and is noticeable, why would you want to put a sealant on now?
Sometimes we can't find an easy fix, at least I can't. Must be my luck.
Do it right and start over.
How do you treat younger wood to make it aged/darker looking without using oil color or varnish or paint?
Some woods can be ';fumed'; with ammonium hydroxide (25%) inside of impermeable plastic tents. This is done outside with good ventilation. You can make an enclosure easily using painters plastic and scraps of wood. For example, white oak turns to a dull gray when exposed to ammonium hydroxide. Most often, the process is followed by applying a protective clear coat rendering the wood a much warmer amber tone compared to a non-fumed piece.
There are many chemicals which impart various characteristics to wood. David Marks is very adept at using chemicals to achieve very unique colors and patterns in wood.
The process of fuming dates back to the early craftsman period.How do you treat younger wood to make it aged/darker looking without using oil color or varnish or paint?
scorch it using a torch, be careful not to light it on fire thoHow do you treat younger wood to make it aged/darker looking without using oil color or varnish or paint?
You can use a blow torch
try using iodine diluted with water.
you could use wax.
There are many chemicals which impart various characteristics to wood. David Marks is very adept at using chemicals to achieve very unique colors and patterns in wood.
The process of fuming dates back to the early craftsman period.How do you treat younger wood to make it aged/darker looking without using oil color or varnish or paint?
scorch it using a torch, be careful not to light it on fire thoHow do you treat younger wood to make it aged/darker looking without using oil color or varnish or paint?
You can use a blow torch
try using iodine diluted with water.
you could use wax.
How harmful is it to burn wood that's been painted?
My boyfriend and his dad were using chainsawed pieces of old fence that was painted brick red on one side, for fire wood. I said wait, there's paint on it! But both of them were like, eh. It's fine. It's not like it was new paint or anything, it was very old, but I still thought that was bad...
What do you think?How harmful is it to burn wood that's been painted?
It is quite possible that the paint was made with pigments that contained lead. That was very common until about 30 years ago.
But, if there was any lead in the paint, and if any of it was released into the air in a form that might be harmful, I suspect that most of it went up the chimney and was not really a danger - but - that is only a guess on my part.
There are little test kits that are sold in many hardware stores that are specifically doing a test for lead in paint. It is a little swab that you wet with some of the liquid in the kit, then rub on the paint. You only get a result that indicates: none, a little, a lot, so it is only a general indication.
If you can find one of those (I'd ask at a customer service counter for lead paint test kit - not very expensive, as I recall), and if any of that wood is still around, you could test it.
If it shows a lot of lead, then you could say, ';See, I told you it was a bad idea!'; - if nothing shows up, you could just toss the kit and say nothing :-) .How harmful is it to burn wood that's been painted?
It can't be very good for you, I'd say if they start feeling sick or get some weird side affects then tell them to get to a doctor as soon as possible.
possibly a fire hazard
What do you think?How harmful is it to burn wood that's been painted?
It is quite possible that the paint was made with pigments that contained lead. That was very common until about 30 years ago.
But, if there was any lead in the paint, and if any of it was released into the air in a form that might be harmful, I suspect that most of it went up the chimney and was not really a danger - but - that is only a guess on my part.
There are little test kits that are sold in many hardware stores that are specifically doing a test for lead in paint. It is a little swab that you wet with some of the liquid in the kit, then rub on the paint. You only get a result that indicates: none, a little, a lot, so it is only a general indication.
If you can find one of those (I'd ask at a customer service counter for lead paint test kit - not very expensive, as I recall), and if any of that wood is still around, you could test it.
If it shows a lot of lead, then you could say, ';See, I told you it was a bad idea!'; - if nothing shows up, you could just toss the kit and say nothing :-) .How harmful is it to burn wood that's been painted?
It can't be very good for you, I'd say if they start feeling sick or get some weird side affects then tell them to get to a doctor as soon as possible.
possibly a fire hazard
How to a hang a 36x24 wood-canvas painting? (no wires)?
hanging with a wire lets you get away with just one hole in your wall...and when you hang with wire, the bottom of the painting is flush to the wall while the top leans out a bit...this is how paintings were meant to be hung...if you dont want wires i would get a keyhole bit for a router and cut a screw slot on each side of the frame near the top...How to a hang a 36x24 wood-canvas painting? (no wires)?
You don't want wires? Or there are no wires? If there aren't any, and you want some, get some and use them.
If you just don't want wires, you can attach loops to the frame in the upper corners and hang from those, or you can put a clip on the top in the middle and hang from that.myspace pages
You don't want wires? Or there are no wires? If there aren't any, and you want some, get some and use them.
If you just don't want wires, you can attach loops to the frame in the upper corners and hang from those, or you can put a clip on the top in the middle and hang from that.
How do you glue a piece of decorative wood to a painted door?
the bedroom doors. I tried gorilla glue, it didn't work.
thanksHow do you glue a piece of decorative wood to a painted door?
It depends how heavy this piece you want to glue is. Paint doesn't hold all glues that well, as you noticed.
To get a better grip, you may want to sand down the areas on the door that will have the glue adhere to.
I would use wood glue, good ol' Elmer's.
I would take the door OFF the hinges though, and lay it flat somewhere. THEN glue the piece on so it sits on top of the door overnight. Then rehang the door.How do you glue a piece of decorative wood to a painted door?
You don't have to use glue-- if the decor piece is light as stated than go to the store, hardware or craft and buy some super strong double sticky back tape-- this will work--
before you apply it make sure you wash the area well , then dry--- you will not be disappointed
thanksHow do you glue a piece of decorative wood to a painted door?
It depends how heavy this piece you want to glue is. Paint doesn't hold all glues that well, as you noticed.
To get a better grip, you may want to sand down the areas on the door that will have the glue adhere to.
I would use wood glue, good ol' Elmer's.
I would take the door OFF the hinges though, and lay it flat somewhere. THEN glue the piece on so it sits on top of the door overnight. Then rehang the door.How do you glue a piece of decorative wood to a painted door?
You don't have to use glue-- if the decor piece is light as stated than go to the store, hardware or craft and buy some super strong double sticky back tape-- this will work--
before you apply it make sure you wash the area well , then dry--- you will not be disappointed
Paint on wood trim molding is peeling. need to repaint... how?
Our home was built 10 years ago (we moved in 9 months ago). The previous homeowner repainted everything head to toe before selling their home and for the most part they did an above average job. The exception is the moldings around the interior doors. The paint is bubbling and peeling off to expose bare wood (actually I think it's probably MDF). And if you look closely you can tell that they painted right over peeling areas themselves without sanding first so this must have been an ongoing problem.
What do I need to do to redo the surface and repaint so that this will not occur again? I'm thinking that I will sand to bare wood/ MDF, prime, and then paint with semi-gloss latex. Seems straightforward enough but since I don't know what caused the bubbling/ peeling I'm afraid it will just happen again.
Any tips for me???Paint on wood trim molding is peeling. need to repaint... how?
Take your time and scrape ALL the loose paint off trim. Sand and use a good primer.If its moisture, you would probably find some mold behind the loose paint. Also, latex over oil base paint will do this.(peel). p.s. A humidifier will add more moisture!Paint on wood trim molding is peeling. need to repaint... how?
Could have been a number of things. Not using primer initially, hummity, using an latex over an oil base paint.
I'm going to tell you the most cost effective remedy is going to be. You can't effectively sand latex/acrylic paint as it'll melt and gum like melting a rubber band and all the labor isn't worth it. Door casing is inexpensive and in cases like this I pull off the door casings and throw them away.
Cut the new casings to fit and if you're not an accomplished carpenter carfully pull the old ones and use them as templates for cutting the new ones.
Once you have them all sized to fit label them on the back sides as to where they go, i.e., which door and to what side they'll be applied. Now prime and paint them on a set of saw horses or bench. I strongly suggest you use oil based paints. For one you'll get a better appearing and more durable trim item, and two, this won't peel and blister later down the road.
Mike Lonergan
TradesProfessional, Inc.
http://www.tradesprofessional.com
sounds like moisture caused the bubbling and peeling do you know the humidity in your home because it will happen again just go out and buy a humidifier and i am sure the problem will not happen again.
What do I need to do to redo the surface and repaint so that this will not occur again? I'm thinking that I will sand to bare wood/ MDF, prime, and then paint with semi-gloss latex. Seems straightforward enough but since I don't know what caused the bubbling/ peeling I'm afraid it will just happen again.
Any tips for me???Paint on wood trim molding is peeling. need to repaint... how?
Take your time and scrape ALL the loose paint off trim. Sand and use a good primer.If its moisture, you would probably find some mold behind the loose paint. Also, latex over oil base paint will do this.(peel). p.s. A humidifier will add more moisture!Paint on wood trim molding is peeling. need to repaint... how?
Could have been a number of things. Not using primer initially, hummity, using an latex over an oil base paint.
I'm going to tell you the most cost effective remedy is going to be. You can't effectively sand latex/acrylic paint as it'll melt and gum like melting a rubber band and all the labor isn't worth it. Door casing is inexpensive and in cases like this I pull off the door casings and throw them away.
Cut the new casings to fit and if you're not an accomplished carpenter carfully pull the old ones and use them as templates for cutting the new ones.
Once you have them all sized to fit label them on the back sides as to where they go, i.e., which door and to what side they'll be applied. Now prime and paint them on a set of saw horses or bench. I strongly suggest you use oil based paints. For one you'll get a better appearing and more durable trim item, and two, this won't peel and blister later down the road.
Mike Lonergan
TradesProfessional, Inc.
http://www.tradesprofessional.com
sounds like moisture caused the bubbling and peeling do you know the humidity in your home because it will happen again just go out and buy a humidifier and i am sure the problem will not happen again.
My garden fence is painted red by the previous tenant,how do i remove the paint back to the natural wood?
I had a shed that I tried to wash clean with a power washer. It didnt just clean it, it took the colour off as well. Worth a try.
I suppose it depends if the colour has soaked in, and how many coats it has had over the years.My garden fence is painted red by the previous tenant,how do i remove the paint back to the natural wood?
The amount of work to do this would be more than purchasing new wood. Why not consider repainting with a natural wood color?My garden fence is painted red by the previous tenant,how do i remove the paint back to the natural wood?
Paint stripper and hard work.
You could try paint stripper ,
have you or sombody sand it off :) hope it helped
I suppose it depends if the colour has soaked in, and how many coats it has had over the years.My garden fence is painted red by the previous tenant,how do i remove the paint back to the natural wood?
The amount of work to do this would be more than purchasing new wood. Why not consider repainting with a natural wood color?My garden fence is painted red by the previous tenant,how do i remove the paint back to the natural wood?
Paint stripper and hard work.
You could try paint stripper ,
have you or sombody sand it off :) hope it helped
How much would it cost to have my kitchen with all cabinetry and wood work painted?
approx. 400 sq. ft. excluding doors and windows. 45sq. ft. cabinets and drawers.How much would it cost to have my kitchen with all cabinetry and wood work painted?
about 400.00
about 400.00
How important is it to put primer on bare wood before painting?
Will 2 or 3 coats of paint accomplish the same thing?How important is it to put primer on bare wood before painting?
No... in a word. Primer is a special paint that does not soak into the wood like regular paint. Hence, the hint in the name... primer'... Without primer, yoiur undercoat will just soak into the wood and your gloss will fall off.
There are very few short cuts in painting... and certainly cutting out the primer is not one of them..
P.s. you may also want to find some 'knotting'. Knotting is an even more specialist product which primes knots in particular as knots exhibit the absorbtion properties of wood, but in a much more pronounced manner. Knotting prevents this happenning.
Hope this helps... Plus, if you are looking for some wood floors, (which do not need primed, undercoated or lacquered) do give my friends at www.ruby2.co.uk a shout.How important is it to put primer on bare wood before painting?
Very important to primer first. Primer has sealing properties that regular paint doesn't have. If you want a quality job that will last longer you should primer first.
the paint job will last a lot longer if you prime before hand. if the wood is not primed the paint will eventually peal
very.out side.inside flat paint will do.
what he said...very important
No... in a word. Primer is a special paint that does not soak into the wood like regular paint. Hence, the hint in the name... primer'... Without primer, yoiur undercoat will just soak into the wood and your gloss will fall off.
There are very few short cuts in painting... and certainly cutting out the primer is not one of them..
P.s. you may also want to find some 'knotting'. Knotting is an even more specialist product which primes knots in particular as knots exhibit the absorbtion properties of wood, but in a much more pronounced manner. Knotting prevents this happenning.
Hope this helps... Plus, if you are looking for some wood floors, (which do not need primed, undercoated or lacquered) do give my friends at www.ruby2.co.uk a shout.How important is it to put primer on bare wood before painting?
Very important to primer first. Primer has sealing properties that regular paint doesn't have. If you want a quality job that will last longer you should primer first.
the paint job will last a lot longer if you prime before hand. if the wood is not primed the paint will eventually peal
very.out side.inside flat paint will do.
what he said...very important
How can u get wood thats been painted white back to the wood color?
i have these ugly closet doors that are a med wood color (they are wood) and i want to paint them but when i move out i have to put everything back to normal is that possible to get that wood color back or even if i make them darker like a mahogany can i lighten them back up?How can u get wood thats been painted white back to the wood color?
Paint stripper or Sanding it down.
Also try contact paper! You can get designs or solid colors they look so craft. Also you can try gathered fabrics... old clean sheets can do. How can u get wood thats been painted white back to the wood color?
use a paint remover or sand paper to remove the paint and get it repainted to any shade of your choice and repeat the process againwhile handing over the apartment or the closet whatever the case may bemyspace pages
Paint stripper or Sanding it down.
Also try contact paper! You can get designs or solid colors they look so craft. Also you can try gathered fabrics... old clean sheets can do. How can u get wood thats been painted white back to the wood color?
use a paint remover or sand paper to remove the paint and get it repainted to any shade of your choice and repeat the process againwhile handing over the apartment or the closet whatever the case may be
How to get a smooth painted finish on soft wood.?
I'm using standard 2x2 and 2x4 wood for a chair base. What is the best way to fill the surface to get a nice glossy painted finish?How to get a smooth painted finish on soft wood.?
Kappa has a good answer, although I might add some recommendations. In addition to what Kappa said about the quality of the paintbrush having a lot to do with the quality/smoothness of the finish (which is very true) and the suggestion about filling the holes, I would suggest : 1. prime the wood first, this will make sure that the moisture or any remaining sap in the wood does not bleed through the top coat of paint ( an oil primer is best for this). 2. use an oil based paint for the absolute best finish, oil paint has the best ';leveling'; (smooths out as it dries) properties especially when using a semigloss or gloss finish. You can certainly use latex paint and will most likely be happy with the result since latex paints have been vastly improved over the years. However, nothing levels out to a smooth finish like oil! If you have any other questions you need answered, please feel free to visit my site at http://thepaintprofessional.com/How to get a smooth painted finish on soft wood.?
Wood filler and sanded when dry with a fine grit sand paper. Once sanded wipe of the area with a damp cloth or sponge to get the remaining dust off the wood (repeat on wait till dry). Finally the paint finish has a lot to do with the paint brush...the better the brush (the more expensive) the better the stroke (consult the paint dept for a suggested fine brush). After you have bought your brush just make sure you have an even amount distributed on the brush and really take your time on the strokes...no need to be in a hurry.
use a thick paint, don,t wipe the brush off flow the paint on
brush on in a one way stroke
let it dry give it another coat
Is this fur? If it is good luck with getting a smooth finish. This is why fur is hidden between walls (studs) not on walls or in furniture. If this is for a play room or outside it will work.
Kappa has a good answer, although I might add some recommendations. In addition to what Kappa said about the quality of the paintbrush having a lot to do with the quality/smoothness of the finish (which is very true) and the suggestion about filling the holes, I would suggest : 1. prime the wood first, this will make sure that the moisture or any remaining sap in the wood does not bleed through the top coat of paint ( an oil primer is best for this). 2. use an oil based paint for the absolute best finish, oil paint has the best ';leveling'; (smooths out as it dries) properties especially when using a semigloss or gloss finish. You can certainly use latex paint and will most likely be happy with the result since latex paints have been vastly improved over the years. However, nothing levels out to a smooth finish like oil! If you have any other questions you need answered, please feel free to visit my site at http://thepaintprofessional.com/How to get a smooth painted finish on soft wood.?
Wood filler and sanded when dry with a fine grit sand paper. Once sanded wipe of the area with a damp cloth or sponge to get the remaining dust off the wood (repeat on wait till dry). Finally the paint finish has a lot to do with the paint brush...the better the brush (the more expensive) the better the stroke (consult the paint dept for a suggested fine brush). After you have bought your brush just make sure you have an even amount distributed on the brush and really take your time on the strokes...no need to be in a hurry.
use a thick paint, don,t wipe the brush off flow the paint on
brush on in a one way stroke
let it dry give it another coat
Is this fur? If it is good luck with getting a smooth finish. This is why fur is hidden between walls (studs) not on walls or in furniture. If this is for a play room or outside it will work.
How to fix a crack in wood before painting?
someone gave me a wooden childs rocking horse. the seat has a crack in it that goes all the way through the wood. i really want to try to fix this so i can paint it for my daughter. i would assume that i should use some type of glue and maybe some of those clamps, but if someone can give me more detailed advise, what type of glue, and the process, i would apprciate it thanks.How to fix a crack in wood before painting?
Use Wood Filler, it comes in different wood colours available in all hardware shops. Dries hard too.How to fix a crack in wood before painting?
It's hard to tell without looking to see how big the crack is and where it is, but I think an epoxy would do well. It will both fill the crack and hold the wood together.
If you can clamp the crack closed, then any woodworking glue (white or yellow) would work. Clean the crack then use something thin to spread the glue within the crack and clamp it closed.
BTW, while Gorilla Glue (polyurethane adhesive) does foam, it won't push the wood apart if clamped and will make a strong and very water resistant joint. You also need to moisten one side of the joint when using this type of adhesive for best results.
For my wood projects - and I do a lot of them - I usually use Titebond II or III. Both are yellow type water resistant glues. I use Gorilla when bonding metal to wood, and epoxies to glue together things that don't fit quite tightly together. I use one of the Goop glues to glue most flexible items.
Wood glue and wood putty are the right way to go as the previous post said. You can also get these items at a home improvement store. Titebond is the best brand to buy. Do not use gorilla glue because it is a ';foaming'; glue and will pull right back apart.
Gorilla Glue works well on most anything, but there is a glue made just for wood. It's by Elmer's, I believe, and is called Wood Glue! It can be found in most craft stores.
Now for the repair. If possible, remove both parts of the seat. You will need clamps, either straps or c-clamps, depending on the size of the seat. Usually glue is applied to both parts evenly, but not overmuch. Align the two sides, press firmly until they stay together, then apply clamps. Once completely dry (I would let sit for a day) sand the seam. If there are any gaps left in the wood, say, because pieces of wood broke off, you may want to use wood putty to fill that in. Also found in craft stores.
You may also want to consider a metal brace on the underside of the seat, if the rocking horse will get a lot of use. Two short metal strips, sturdy, applied with screws perpendicular to the wood seam. When finished, reattach the seat!
Gorilla Glue and you would need strap clamps Then sand and paint
Use Wood Filler, it comes in different wood colours available in all hardware shops. Dries hard too.How to fix a crack in wood before painting?
It's hard to tell without looking to see how big the crack is and where it is, but I think an epoxy would do well. It will both fill the crack and hold the wood together.
If you can clamp the crack closed, then any woodworking glue (white or yellow) would work. Clean the crack then use something thin to spread the glue within the crack and clamp it closed.
BTW, while Gorilla Glue (polyurethane adhesive) does foam, it won't push the wood apart if clamped and will make a strong and very water resistant joint. You also need to moisten one side of the joint when using this type of adhesive for best results.
For my wood projects - and I do a lot of them - I usually use Titebond II or III. Both are yellow type water resistant glues. I use Gorilla when bonding metal to wood, and epoxies to glue together things that don't fit quite tightly together. I use one of the Goop glues to glue most flexible items.
Wood glue and wood putty are the right way to go as the previous post said. You can also get these items at a home improvement store. Titebond is the best brand to buy. Do not use gorilla glue because it is a ';foaming'; glue and will pull right back apart.
Gorilla Glue works well on most anything, but there is a glue made just for wood. It's by Elmer's, I believe, and is called Wood Glue! It can be found in most craft stores.
Now for the repair. If possible, remove both parts of the seat. You will need clamps, either straps or c-clamps, depending on the size of the seat. Usually glue is applied to both parts evenly, but not overmuch. Align the two sides, press firmly until they stay together, then apply clamps. Once completely dry (I would let sit for a day) sand the seam. If there are any gaps left in the wood, say, because pieces of wood broke off, you may want to use wood putty to fill that in. Also found in craft stores.
You may also want to consider a metal brace on the underside of the seat, if the rocking horse will get a lot of use. Two short metal strips, sturdy, applied with screws perpendicular to the wood seam. When finished, reattach the seat!
Gorilla Glue and you would need strap clamps Then sand and paint
Robert Wood Painting.Need help on how to get it cleaned.?
I have this painting by Robert Wood.It has water marks on it %26amp;would very much like to see if there is a place where i can get it cleaned.its in very good condition,but these water stains on it have me worried.Is there anyone who knows of a good place to take it to,I live in North Fort Myers Fl.Some place near me please.Robert Wood Painting.Need help on how to get it cleaned.?
Call a good gallery. This would NOT be a DIY project. They can give you a referral to someone in your area.
Call a good gallery. This would NOT be a DIY project. They can give you a referral to someone in your area.
How to remove Sharpee Perm Ink from painted wood?
If the paint is in Flat or Eggshell finish, your best bet is to prime over the mark with Kilz Primer and then repaint.
If the paint is in Satin, Semi-Gloss, or High Gloss finish, WD-40 will remove the ink.
WD-40 is a household product usually used to lubricate doors and joints that creak but it also removes grease, ink, and crayon marks.
You can buy WD-40 at your local hardware store.
WD-40 has degreasing agents that break apart stains caused by ink and marker. Spray the area with a thick layer of WD-40. Allow to sit for about a half an hour. Then wipe with a damp paper towel. Repeat the procedure if necessary until all the ink is gone.
Rubbing alcohol, nail polish remover, and anything abrasive could damage or even remove your paint. WD-40 should not harm your paint, unless it is in a flat or eggshell finish. These finishes will absorb the WD-40, and (as I said) your best bet for these finishes is to prime and repaint.How to remove Sharpee Perm Ink from painted wood?
Instructions
Things You'll Need:
hydrogen peroxide or rubbing alcohol
sandpaper
Stain or whatever is applied to the wood floors
Magic Eraser (any brand)
cotton balls or a clean cloth rag
Step
1
Use a Magic Eraser and wipe over the ink mark. You will immediately see the ink on the eraser if it works.
Step
2
Wipe hydrogen peroxide or rubbing alcohol on the ink mark with a cotton ball or cloth rag if the above does not work.
Step
3
Sand the marked area if the alcohol or hydrogen peroxide does not work.
Step
4
Stain or paint the wood to match the other areas.
Step
5
Wipe the entire area down with a dry, clean cloth when finished treating it.How to remove Sharpee Perm Ink from painted wood?
***Baking Soda Method
You Will Need:
* Baking soda
* Water
* Soft cloths
* Cotton balls
* Rubbing alcohol (optional)
Steps to Remove the Stain:
1. Begin by mixing water and baking soda to form a paste.
2. Spread the paste over the ink stain and rub it in with your fingers. Baking soda can be slightly abrasive, so avoid scrubbing too hard or it may damage the finish.
3. Moisten a soft cloth with plain water and scrub the area as you remove the paste.
4. For larger stains, repeat the steps above until all of the ink is removed.
5. If a haze is left on the surface from the baking soda, wipe the area with a cotton ball moistened with a small amount of rubbing alcohol to remove.
***Rubbing Alcohol Method
You Will Need:
* Rubbing alcohol or
* Hairspray (cheaper is better because it contains more alcohol)
* Water
* Soft cloths
* Cotton swabs or cotton balls
Steps to Remove the Stain:
1. Rubbing alcohol is a well-known ink removal product. Cheaper hairsprays tend to contain higher level of alcohol making them excellent alternatives when no rubbing alcohol is available.
2. Moisten cotton ball or cotton swab with the rubbing alcohol or hairspray.
3. Gently wipe the ink-stained area until the ink is removed.
4. If necessary, repeat with a fresh cotton ball or swab.
5. Avoid scrubbing with pressure as this can lead to removing some of the finish and may leave a mark.
6. When the stain is completely removed, rinse the area by wiping it with a clean cloth moistened with plain water.
***Alternative Cleaners
You Will Need:
* Plain white toothpaste
* Cutter鈥檚 insect repellent
* Spray on sunscreen
* Soft cloths
* Water
* Cotton balls or cotton swabs (optional)
Steps to Remove the Stains:
1. It can be surprising what normal household products will remove ink safely from many surfaces.
2. The first cleaner to try is plain white toothpaste (toothpaste with baking soda has been found to be even more effective). Spread the toothpaste over the area and rinse by wiping away with a clean cloth moistened with plain water.
3. Repeat until the stain is removed.
4. The second method employs the power of spray on insect repellent or sunscreen. Both of these products allow the water to get underneath the ink and literally make it run off of the surface.
5. After testing a small hidden area, spray the stained area until the stain is saturated with the repellent or sunscreen.
6. Wipe away with a clean soft cloth. For smaller areas it may be helpful to apply the spray by moistening a cotton swab or cotton ball and rubbing the area.
7. Repeat until all of the ink is removed.
8. Finally, rinse the area with a soft cloth moistened with clean water.
try nail polish remover
Probably best to just paint over it
Use Paint thinner.
mr clean sponge it works
If the paint is in Satin, Semi-Gloss, or High Gloss finish, WD-40 will remove the ink.
WD-40 is a household product usually used to lubricate doors and joints that creak but it also removes grease, ink, and crayon marks.
You can buy WD-40 at your local hardware store.
WD-40 has degreasing agents that break apart stains caused by ink and marker. Spray the area with a thick layer of WD-40. Allow to sit for about a half an hour. Then wipe with a damp paper towel. Repeat the procedure if necessary until all the ink is gone.
Rubbing alcohol, nail polish remover, and anything abrasive could damage or even remove your paint. WD-40 should not harm your paint, unless it is in a flat or eggshell finish. These finishes will absorb the WD-40, and (as I said) your best bet for these finishes is to prime and repaint.How to remove Sharpee Perm Ink from painted wood?
Instructions
Things You'll Need:
hydrogen peroxide or rubbing alcohol
sandpaper
Stain or whatever is applied to the wood floors
Magic Eraser (any brand)
cotton balls or a clean cloth rag
Step
1
Use a Magic Eraser and wipe over the ink mark. You will immediately see the ink on the eraser if it works.
Step
2
Wipe hydrogen peroxide or rubbing alcohol on the ink mark with a cotton ball or cloth rag if the above does not work.
Step
3
Sand the marked area if the alcohol or hydrogen peroxide does not work.
Step
4
Stain or paint the wood to match the other areas.
Step
5
Wipe the entire area down with a dry, clean cloth when finished treating it.How to remove Sharpee Perm Ink from painted wood?
***Baking Soda Method
You Will Need:
* Baking soda
* Water
* Soft cloths
* Cotton balls
* Rubbing alcohol (optional)
Steps to Remove the Stain:
1. Begin by mixing water and baking soda to form a paste.
2. Spread the paste over the ink stain and rub it in with your fingers. Baking soda can be slightly abrasive, so avoid scrubbing too hard or it may damage the finish.
3. Moisten a soft cloth with plain water and scrub the area as you remove the paste.
4. For larger stains, repeat the steps above until all of the ink is removed.
5. If a haze is left on the surface from the baking soda, wipe the area with a cotton ball moistened with a small amount of rubbing alcohol to remove.
***Rubbing Alcohol Method
You Will Need:
* Rubbing alcohol or
* Hairspray (cheaper is better because it contains more alcohol)
* Water
* Soft cloths
* Cotton swabs or cotton balls
Steps to Remove the Stain:
1. Rubbing alcohol is a well-known ink removal product. Cheaper hairsprays tend to contain higher level of alcohol making them excellent alternatives when no rubbing alcohol is available.
2. Moisten cotton ball or cotton swab with the rubbing alcohol or hairspray.
3. Gently wipe the ink-stained area until the ink is removed.
4. If necessary, repeat with a fresh cotton ball or swab.
5. Avoid scrubbing with pressure as this can lead to removing some of the finish and may leave a mark.
6. When the stain is completely removed, rinse the area by wiping it with a clean cloth moistened with plain water.
***Alternative Cleaners
You Will Need:
* Plain white toothpaste
* Cutter鈥檚 insect repellent
* Spray on sunscreen
* Soft cloths
* Water
* Cotton balls or cotton swabs (optional)
Steps to Remove the Stains:
1. It can be surprising what normal household products will remove ink safely from many surfaces.
2. The first cleaner to try is plain white toothpaste (toothpaste with baking soda has been found to be even more effective). Spread the toothpaste over the area and rinse by wiping away with a clean cloth moistened with plain water.
3. Repeat until the stain is removed.
4. The second method employs the power of spray on insect repellent or sunscreen. Both of these products allow the water to get underneath the ink and literally make it run off of the surface.
5. After testing a small hidden area, spray the stained area until the stain is saturated with the repellent or sunscreen.
6. Wipe away with a clean soft cloth. For smaller areas it may be helpful to apply the spray by moistening a cotton swab or cotton ball and rubbing the area.
7. Repeat until all of the ink is removed.
8. Finally, rinse the area with a soft cloth moistened with clean water.
try nail polish remover
Probably best to just paint over it
Use Paint thinner.
mr clean sponge it works
Wood deck that has been painted how can i get this back to the orginal wood with least expense and effort?
I am Handicapped and the deck has been several times and it keeps bubbling up how can i either strip down to orginal wood are be able to repaint it is about 10x20Wood deck that has been painted how can i get this back to the orginal wood with least expense and effort?
You could do a few things, one you could just peel off as much as you can where it is bubbling and then sand it. You could power wash it (just don't splinter the wood by getting to close with power washer) or you could use a paint remover. The problem with painted decks is that every year you have to repaint them. I know I just did mine but I love the look.
Good luck to you!Wood deck that has been painted how can i get this back to the orginal wood with least expense and effort?
have some young kids remove the deck....turn it over and renail it....this would be the cheepest way....next step up is sanding or power washing the deck and repainting
You could do a few things, one you could just peel off as much as you can where it is bubbling and then sand it. You could power wash it (just don't splinter the wood by getting to close with power washer) or you could use a paint remover. The problem with painted decks is that every year you have to repaint them. I know I just did mine but I love the look.
Good luck to you!Wood deck that has been painted how can i get this back to the orginal wood with least expense and effort?
have some young kids remove the deck....turn it over and renail it....this would be the cheepest way....next step up is sanding or power washing the deck and repainting
How to get wood stain of off my motorcycle paint job.?
Use a buffing or polishing compound and then wax it when your done.How to get wood stain of off my motorcycle paint job.?
Get an old dish towel (it might get ruined) soak it in warm water. Let the warm, wet dish towel sit on the stain for about five minutes, then wipe. You might have to do this a few times. The clear coat on your paint job should protect your motorcycle from being permanently stained.
Is the stain on a part that is going to get hot? It could catch on fire if it, was say on the muffler. Make sure you clean with plain water on those parts, and get it all off before going for a ride.myspace pages
Get an old dish towel (it might get ruined) soak it in warm water. Let the warm, wet dish towel sit on the stain for about five minutes, then wipe. You might have to do this a few times. The clear coat on your paint job should protect your motorcycle from being permanently stained.
Is the stain on a part that is going to get hot? It could catch on fire if it, was say on the muffler. Make sure you clean with plain water on those parts, and get it all off before going for a ride.
I have a wood back porch and would like to paint a design on it. Can you give me an idea on how to keep up?
there are really good wood stains out there that are colored. Greens, blues, real reds... Not just that ugly stuff that every one else has... try that and then put a HIGH QUALITY top coat/sealer over it.
How to choose an acrylic paint for wood?
I want to paint wooden toys with acrylic paint but do not know which paint will I need. For example, there are acrylic paint sets on Amazon.co.uk for under 拢5.00 and then those which cost more than 拢10.00. I need a paint which would last and will not be scratched off easily.
Thank you.
The paints:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001880N9Q/ref=s9_sima_gw_s0_p21_i2?pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE%26amp;pf_rd_s=center-1%26amp;pf_rd_r=1HC5E8C6PDVPWVSV3BCS%26amp;pf_rd_t=101%26amp;pf_rd_p=467198433%26amp;pf_rd_i=468294
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001UNXBPW/ref=s9_sima_gw_s0_p21_i1?pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE%26amp;pf_rd_s=center-1%26amp;pf_rd_r=1HC5E8C6PDVPWVSV3BCS%26amp;pf_rd_t=101%26amp;pf_rd_p=467198433%26amp;pf_rd_i=468294
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002AT2Y4Y/ref=s9_sima_gw_s0_p21_i3?pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE%26amp;pf_rd_s=center-1%26amp;pf_rd_r=1HC5E8C6PDVPWVSV3BCS%26amp;pf_rd_t=101%26amp;pf_rd_p=467198433%26amp;pf_rd_i=468294How to choose an acrylic paint for wood?
The differences in acrylic paints:
Acrylic craft paints - the cheapest - these are thinned paints in bottles used for craft projects. The work find for most painted wooden projects. Always finish with several coats of poly or varnish. Sometimes sold in little pots in plastic strips - don't bother with these except for extremely low end projects.
Acrylic studient artist paints - mid price - sold in tubes or jars. These are paints suited for painting on canvas for students (as the name indicates). The colors may include the word ';hue'; like ';cadmium yellow medium hue'; which means that the color is mixed with other things besides pure cadmium yellow medium.
Acrylic professional artist paints - highest price - sold in tubes or jars. These are paints for the professional artist or the student who wants to use high end products and are developed for painting on canvas. They have the purest colors and the best textures and consistencies. I did not realize how much difference there was (I have used professional grade for years) until I taught a class and tried to economize by using a student grade paint. It was so thick that it did not work at all for the project and we had to throw away those tubes and get out the good stuff.
Your links:
the Royal %26amp; Langnickel is student grade artist but a brand I've never heard of
the Otherland is student grade artist but a brand I've never heard of
the Windsor %26amp; Newton Galleria is student grade artist but a good brand
from your amazon.co.uk site this is an example of the craft acrylic paint you probably want:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/DECOART-ACRYLIC-鈥?/a>
As you can see they don't come in a kit, you buy individual bottles at an affordable price. (I have a large box of these paints for craft projects. When I finish using them, I put a thin layer of water on top of each bottle before putting them up to keep them from drying out. Then when I am ready to use it again I just shake it up good.)How to choose an acrylic paint for wood?
A good base coat is the answer to a smooth paint job and a good varnish is the best way to avoid chips, peeling, etc. Use an outdoor varnish that you brush on. The paints the above poster recommended are good.
Thank you.
The paints:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001880N9Q/ref=s9_sima_gw_s0_p21_i2?pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE%26amp;pf_rd_s=center-1%26amp;pf_rd_r=1HC5E8C6PDVPWVSV3BCS%26amp;pf_rd_t=101%26amp;pf_rd_p=467198433%26amp;pf_rd_i=468294
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001UNXBPW/ref=s9_sima_gw_s0_p21_i1?pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE%26amp;pf_rd_s=center-1%26amp;pf_rd_r=1HC5E8C6PDVPWVSV3BCS%26amp;pf_rd_t=101%26amp;pf_rd_p=467198433%26amp;pf_rd_i=468294
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002AT2Y4Y/ref=s9_sima_gw_s0_p21_i3?pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE%26amp;pf_rd_s=center-1%26amp;pf_rd_r=1HC5E8C6PDVPWVSV3BCS%26amp;pf_rd_t=101%26amp;pf_rd_p=467198433%26amp;pf_rd_i=468294How to choose an acrylic paint for wood?
The differences in acrylic paints:
Acrylic craft paints - the cheapest - these are thinned paints in bottles used for craft projects. The work find for most painted wooden projects. Always finish with several coats of poly or varnish. Sometimes sold in little pots in plastic strips - don't bother with these except for extremely low end projects.
Acrylic studient artist paints - mid price - sold in tubes or jars. These are paints suited for painting on canvas for students (as the name indicates). The colors may include the word ';hue'; like ';cadmium yellow medium hue'; which means that the color is mixed with other things besides pure cadmium yellow medium.
Acrylic professional artist paints - highest price - sold in tubes or jars. These are paints for the professional artist or the student who wants to use high end products and are developed for painting on canvas. They have the purest colors and the best textures and consistencies. I did not realize how much difference there was (I have used professional grade for years) until I taught a class and tried to economize by using a student grade paint. It was so thick that it did not work at all for the project and we had to throw away those tubes and get out the good stuff.
Your links:
the Royal %26amp; Langnickel is student grade artist but a brand I've never heard of
the Otherland is student grade artist but a brand I've never heard of
the Windsor %26amp; Newton Galleria is student grade artist but a good brand
from your amazon.co.uk site this is an example of the craft acrylic paint you probably want:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/DECOART-ACRYLIC-鈥?/a>
As you can see they don't come in a kit, you buy individual bottles at an affordable price. (I have a large box of these paints for craft projects. When I finish using them, I put a thin layer of water on top of each bottle before putting them up to keep them from drying out. Then when I am ready to use it again I just shake it up good.)How to choose an acrylic paint for wood?
A good base coat is the answer to a smooth paint job and a good varnish is the best way to avoid chips, peeling, etc. Use an outdoor varnish that you brush on. The paints the above poster recommended are good.
How to paint old and scraped composite wood on garage door?
I am repainting my garage door exterior. The old paint was chipping badly so I scraped away all the paint that was loose. I found out while chipping the paint that the rectangular panels on the garage door were not made of wood but of some kind of wood composite.
The paint chipping process left the composite in a bad condition. The composite is now very rough and fuzzy-looking. It does not seem like sanding would do much on this type of material. It also does not look like a good surface to paint on.
But please note that I have no real experience with painting or wood.
Should I just go ahead and start painting, or is there something I should to to prepare for this damaged composite wood?
Thanks for the helpHow to paint old and scraped composite wood on garage door?
The particle board panels may be replaceable if you disassemble the wood frame on the around each panel this may damage the nailed together door, this kind of stuff is what makes aluminum garage doors desirable.
if having a little fuzz sticking through the paint doesn't bother you and the panels are not saggy or water damage paint away
wood primer/then your color
also replave the foam nailed on the bottom of the doorHow to paint old and scraped composite wood on garage door?
Most of the composite panels were made of Masonite. If the masonite is swelling as opposed to just being rough by scraping I do not know what to advise you. Most swelling you will find on the bottom of the panel. It means water or rot damage or both. You might try the Home Depot paint dept. Some of them are professional painters. I can imagine your situation though, your painted panels will still look fuzzy. Did you try a palm sander ?
You could get some textured spray paint or use paintable caulk to create a texture on these panels. THEN paint the entire door. With a little care, you could make these look very good.
Also, you may want to glue a thin plastic or wood panel of the right size on top of the damaged area.
The paint chipping process left the composite in a bad condition. The composite is now very rough and fuzzy-looking. It does not seem like sanding would do much on this type of material. It also does not look like a good surface to paint on.
But please note that I have no real experience with painting or wood.
Should I just go ahead and start painting, or is there something I should to to prepare for this damaged composite wood?
Thanks for the helpHow to paint old and scraped composite wood on garage door?
The particle board panels may be replaceable if you disassemble the wood frame on the around each panel this may damage the nailed together door, this kind of stuff is what makes aluminum garage doors desirable.
if having a little fuzz sticking through the paint doesn't bother you and the panels are not saggy or water damage paint away
wood primer/then your color
also replave the foam nailed on the bottom of the doorHow to paint old and scraped composite wood on garage door?
Most of the composite panels were made of Masonite. If the masonite is swelling as opposed to just being rough by scraping I do not know what to advise you. Most swelling you will find on the bottom of the panel. It means water or rot damage or both. You might try the Home Depot paint dept. Some of them are professional painters. I can imagine your situation though, your painted panels will still look fuzzy. Did you try a palm sander ?
You could get some textured spray paint or use paintable caulk to create a texture on these panels. THEN paint the entire door. With a little care, you could make these look very good.
Also, you may want to glue a thin plastic or wood panel of the right size on top of the damaged area.
How to paint a mural on a wood frame for first-timers?
I have a mirror with a medium colored wood frame that I'd like to paint white and then cover most of it with illustrations from a book. I have never painted on wood before--how would I go about this step by step? (The illustrations have colored backgrounds that I'd like to have fade into the white. If you have an easy way to do that, please let me know.)
I am usually just an oil painter on canvas and oil is what I feel most comfortable using due to being able to layer the paint with no problem. Keeping this in mind, please recommend what you think is the best paint (best looking and long lasting) for the job also.
Thank you in advance!How to paint a mural on a wood frame for first-timers?
You being an oil painter, I think you should stick with your strength's. Of coarse you'll have to prep the frame first. I haven't used oils in a long time but here's how I'd do it.
First sand the frame. You probably don't have to sand it all the way down. Just enough for the primer to have something to bite into. Then clean it with a good degreaser, and run it over with a tack cloth. Then prime it. I'm pretty sure you can even get gesso in a spray can. That would make things really easy. Now you're ready to paint. Bust out the oils and go nuts. With the blending properties of oils being what they are, I don't think you'll have any problem fading your backgrounds into white. When you're done, throw on a coat or two of varnish and you'll have yourself one custom painted mirror.
Good luck. Sounds like a fun project.How to paint a mural on a wood frame for first-timers?
I'm with Stitch - use oils! Sand, prime and go !!
But if your heart is set on acrylics, there's no reason you can't layer as you do with oils - the biggest difference is in drying time. Use a liquid polymer medium to thin the paint instead of water, just as you would use linseed and/or turps with your oils.
Have fun!
I am usually just an oil painter on canvas and oil is what I feel most comfortable using due to being able to layer the paint with no problem. Keeping this in mind, please recommend what you think is the best paint (best looking and long lasting) for the job also.
Thank you in advance!How to paint a mural on a wood frame for first-timers?
You being an oil painter, I think you should stick with your strength's. Of coarse you'll have to prep the frame first. I haven't used oils in a long time but here's how I'd do it.
First sand the frame. You probably don't have to sand it all the way down. Just enough for the primer to have something to bite into. Then clean it with a good degreaser, and run it over with a tack cloth. Then prime it. I'm pretty sure you can even get gesso in a spray can. That would make things really easy. Now you're ready to paint. Bust out the oils and go nuts. With the blending properties of oils being what they are, I don't think you'll have any problem fading your backgrounds into white. When you're done, throw on a coat or two of varnish and you'll have yourself one custom painted mirror.
Good luck. Sounds like a fun project.How to paint a mural on a wood frame for first-timers?
I'm with Stitch - use oils! Sand, prime and go !!
But if your heart is set on acrylics, there's no reason you can't layer as you do with oils - the biggest difference is in drying time. Use a liquid polymer medium to thin the paint instead of water, just as you would use linseed and/or turps with your oils.
Have fun!
How to fix a crack in wood before painting?
someone gave me a wooden childs rocking horse. the seat has a crack in it that goes all the way through the wood. i really want to try to fix this so i can paint it for my daughter. i would assume that i should use some type of glue and maybe some of those clamps, but if someone can give me more detailed advise, what type of glue, and the process, i would apprciate it thanks.How to fix a crack in wood before painting?
yes
you need to use a slow drying 2 part epoxy glue.
dont use the fast dry because it will not penetrate the wood as well.
Or a high quality wood glue, not just that white Elmers Glue for crafts, wood glue.
cost a 3 bucks at any store.
as for a cheap and easy clamp
just get 20 feet of some strong twine or small diameter rope
And wrap it round and and round the seat to hold (clamp) it together
Prob about 20 to 30 winds, more the better.
the more wraps ,the the more it will squeeze the gap together.
To see how this works , just get some thread and wrap it round and round your finger to see the affect.
Then let it cure for a couple days and sand off the extra glue after you remove the ';clamp';.How to fix a crack in wood before painting?
yeah, for you !! . you will always remember that method to make a clamp.
It is not glue that you should use to fill the crack but a water based wood filler that does not shrink away or crack. It will take multiple applications because the filler will settle into the crack with each application until the entire crack is filled. Once filled, take a higher grit sandpaper (100 grit - 120 grit) and sand off the excess until smooth and then paint. A good filler would be Timbermate or FinalTouch. You can go to either of the websites and find a local distributor near you.
Jules27, the best way to fix a crack in wood is to squeeze some wood glue in the crack, let the glue run into it good, I use Titebond 2 it works real good. Then depending on the width of the wood use c clamps or bar clamps wipe off excess glue with a damp cloth .If when you clamp it the wood has a hump you can put 2 pieces of wood on either side and clamp across the glue up to take the hump out. You may want to wax the points where the wood touches the glue. Good Luck
it's hard to tell if the seat is fixed to the horse ,not lose but cracked .go to home depot like store ,and get epoxy sticks one is black and one is white you mix them together till gray then force it in the crack with a putty knife and pack it in hard as you can .let it sit till dry .then sand it smooth should work good for what you have .and it is paintable if you want to. mix it real good till one color.good luck
Go to home depot and buy wood putty works great as long as it is not a crack that will break and your child will get hurt as long as its a small crack wood putty smooth it over the break and let dry then sand and paint or you can have a carpenter make a new seat...safety first..
Gently spread the crack and fill will any good wood glue. Elmer's is one. Then position the clamps to completely seal the crack. Wipe the excess glue off and let set overnight. Sand the crack smooth with fine sandpaper and paint away. You are now an expert do-it-yourselfer!
Can the wood be completely separated, if so, you can use carpenters glue ( wood glue) and clamp it nice and easy and as tight as possible making sure to be strait and even, wipe up any excess glue, if not ,you may want to drill two or three holes on the side closes to the crack , about 1/8 of an inch, you may past the crack a bit, drill another bigger hole at the same place, big and deep enough to hide the screw heads, poor as much glue as needed, you may have to add water to it if it's too thick to go down the crack, you may then clamp and add wood screws long enough to past the crack 3/4 inch. Again make shure to wipe all glue with wet cloth if needed, let sit over night.You can fill holes with wood filler and sand it smooth and Presto like new again.
yes
you need to use a slow drying 2 part epoxy glue.
dont use the fast dry because it will not penetrate the wood as well.
Or a high quality wood glue, not just that white Elmers Glue for crafts, wood glue.
cost a 3 bucks at any store.
as for a cheap and easy clamp
just get 20 feet of some strong twine or small diameter rope
And wrap it round and and round the seat to hold (clamp) it together
Prob about 20 to 30 winds, more the better.
the more wraps ,the the more it will squeeze the gap together.
To see how this works , just get some thread and wrap it round and round your finger to see the affect.
Then let it cure for a couple days and sand off the extra glue after you remove the ';clamp';.How to fix a crack in wood before painting?
yeah, for you !! . you will always remember that method to make a clamp.
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It is not glue that you should use to fill the crack but a water based wood filler that does not shrink away or crack. It will take multiple applications because the filler will settle into the crack with each application until the entire crack is filled. Once filled, take a higher grit sandpaper (100 grit - 120 grit) and sand off the excess until smooth and then paint. A good filler would be Timbermate or FinalTouch. You can go to either of the websites and find a local distributor near you.
Jules27, the best way to fix a crack in wood is to squeeze some wood glue in the crack, let the glue run into it good, I use Titebond 2 it works real good. Then depending on the width of the wood use c clamps or bar clamps wipe off excess glue with a damp cloth .If when you clamp it the wood has a hump you can put 2 pieces of wood on either side and clamp across the glue up to take the hump out. You may want to wax the points where the wood touches the glue. Good Luck
it's hard to tell if the seat is fixed to the horse ,not lose but cracked .go to home depot like store ,and get epoxy sticks one is black and one is white you mix them together till gray then force it in the crack with a putty knife and pack it in hard as you can .let it sit till dry .then sand it smooth should work good for what you have .and it is paintable if you want to. mix it real good till one color.good luck
Go to home depot and buy wood putty works great as long as it is not a crack that will break and your child will get hurt as long as its a small crack wood putty smooth it over the break and let dry then sand and paint or you can have a carpenter make a new seat...safety first..
Gently spread the crack and fill will any good wood glue. Elmer's is one. Then position the clamps to completely seal the crack. Wipe the excess glue off and let set overnight. Sand the crack smooth with fine sandpaper and paint away. You are now an expert do-it-yourselfer!
Can the wood be completely separated, if so, you can use carpenters glue ( wood glue) and clamp it nice and easy and as tight as possible making sure to be strait and even, wipe up any excess glue, if not ,you may want to drill two or three holes on the side closes to the crack , about 1/8 of an inch, you may past the crack a bit, drill another bigger hole at the same place, big and deep enough to hide the screw heads, poor as much glue as needed, you may have to add water to it if it's too thick to go down the crack, you may then clamp and add wood screws long enough to past the crack 3/4 inch. Again make shure to wipe all glue with wet cloth if needed, let sit over night.You can fill holes with wood filler and sand it smooth and Presto like new again.
Want to paint on wood but don't know how?
want to do an oil painting on wood but am clueless on what steps are needed (primers, varnishes,etc.) so that the paint is applied properly + won't fade.Want to paint on wood but don't know how?
It depends on what kind of wood you are going to paint on. Different woods and wood products have different absorption rates and are more suitable for painting or should be avoided altogether. Also some woods might need special preparation before it can be painted on. For example I would not paint on pine because when it dries it tends to split and crack, before any painting on it I would let it dry for at least couple months and find the best pieces with least cracking. Oak is good for painting and absorbs paint or stain well but is very expensive. Poplar doesn't absorb paint almost at all and I don't think it is a good wood for painting. Man made plywood and boards are more suitable for painting because you can get them for much cheaper, they weigh less, and usually will not change with age. Products like oak plywood the 1/4 thickness, luan, or masonite. Masonite is probably the best, it will last a long time and don't need any special treatment.
As with any oil painting surface you should use at least 3 coats of gesso or rabit skin glue. Most people use gesso because it is so much easier to use. After you put down 3 coats of gesso you can start painting.
With varnish you should wait at least 6 months for the painting to dry before applying varnish. I use brush on varnish because it doesn't get on everything in my studio like sprays do. The smell is pretty bad so use it in a well ventilated areas.Want to paint on wood but don't know how?
first answer is right, but if the wood is raw it should be sanded *before* applying your first coat of gesso with a flat brush (if painting on a huge surface a housepaint brush works great).
Wait an hour for each coat of gesso to dry - it needs to be *completely* dry before applying the next layer otherwise it will crack in time.
When applying the layers of gesso, alternate layers of horizontal strokes with vertical to make the application as even as possible. Sand with fine sandpaper inbetween drying times to remove unwanted bumps and particles.
Apply 6-7 coats of gesso total and allow the gessoed wood to dry 1 or 2 months before use so that it's completely dry.
happy painting!
The varnish you use should come from the same company as the paint you use. Be sure to use a removable varnish so your piece can be cleaned in the future.This company is common so I put in a link
http://www.grumbacherart.com
gesso it. i just use white priming paint u can get from home depot or somewhere like that. paint a layer, let it dry, then sand it so its really smooth. do this 3 times and in the end ur surface will feel like marble. trust me its marvelous to work onmyspace pages
It depends on what kind of wood you are going to paint on. Different woods and wood products have different absorption rates and are more suitable for painting or should be avoided altogether. Also some woods might need special preparation before it can be painted on. For example I would not paint on pine because when it dries it tends to split and crack, before any painting on it I would let it dry for at least couple months and find the best pieces with least cracking. Oak is good for painting and absorbs paint or stain well but is very expensive. Poplar doesn't absorb paint almost at all and I don't think it is a good wood for painting. Man made plywood and boards are more suitable for painting because you can get them for much cheaper, they weigh less, and usually will not change with age. Products like oak plywood the 1/4 thickness, luan, or masonite. Masonite is probably the best, it will last a long time and don't need any special treatment.
As with any oil painting surface you should use at least 3 coats of gesso or rabit skin glue. Most people use gesso because it is so much easier to use. After you put down 3 coats of gesso you can start painting.
With varnish you should wait at least 6 months for the painting to dry before applying varnish. I use brush on varnish because it doesn't get on everything in my studio like sprays do. The smell is pretty bad so use it in a well ventilated areas.Want to paint on wood but don't know how?
first answer is right, but if the wood is raw it should be sanded *before* applying your first coat of gesso with a flat brush (if painting on a huge surface a housepaint brush works great).
Wait an hour for each coat of gesso to dry - it needs to be *completely* dry before applying the next layer otherwise it will crack in time.
When applying the layers of gesso, alternate layers of horizontal strokes with vertical to make the application as even as possible. Sand with fine sandpaper inbetween drying times to remove unwanted bumps and particles.
Apply 6-7 coats of gesso total and allow the gessoed wood to dry 1 or 2 months before use so that it's completely dry.
happy painting!
The varnish you use should come from the same company as the paint you use. Be sure to use a removable varnish so your piece can be cleaned in the future.This company is common so I put in a link
http://www.grumbacherart.com
gesso it. i just use white priming paint u can get from home depot or somewhere like that. paint a layer, let it dry, then sand it so its really smooth. do this 3 times and in the end ur surface will feel like marble. trust me its marvelous to work on
I HAVE STIPPED THE PAINT OFF THE WOODWORK AND I NEED TO KNOW WHAT KIND OF WOOD IT IS. HOW DO I TELL?
Anyone trying to answer your question is absolutely only guessing. One can make comments about one species or trait of a particular type, but you can't get a good answer to your question as you posed it. Chances are the wood is from a few various types if it was used in the construction of your come. If you're talking about a piece of furniture, the type or species will broaden even more considerably. And if it's a foreign made piece, even moreso.
I've worked with wood for 35 years, and there are literally thousands of different types globally. If necessary, you could locate a book or search the web for a site that graphically details different types. I have such a book, and even then it's difficult for the more exotic species. You could ask a local handyman to come take a look - (s)he could give you a good guess, and it if a more common type of wood, i.e., cherry mahogony, walnut (s)he could probably tell you that much.
Good luck
added: p.s. wood isn't labeled soft or hard by their density, although it works most of the time - rather it depends upon whether the tree keeps it's leaves through out the year!I HAVE STIPPED THE PAINT OFF THE WOODWORK AND I NEED TO KNOW WHAT KIND OF WOOD IT IS. HOW DO I TELL?
It is very likely some variation of pine...or if hardwood it would be oak. You can tell Oak by a very distinct grain. Take a fingernail in some out of the way place and push in slightly. If it goes in easily it is probably pine (fir).I HAVE STIPPED THE PAINT OFF THE WOODWORK AND I NEED TO KNOW WHAT KIND OF WOOD IT IS. HOW DO I TELL?
Woodwork??? No don't tell me I can guess
From What cabinets, desk, piano, molding?
Cut off a small section. Light the section on fire. If it burns yellow then it's a hardwood. If it burns orange, then it's not.
Cut off another small section - Soak it in alcohol. If the grain turns green. It's pine. If not, then it's Oak.
Repeat if needed.
-J
Search Garrett Wade on the net. I believe you can purchase samples of wood there. Why not take a piece of the wood to a woodworker and get his advice?
Read what Stretch wrote and you have your how to find out taken care of. I've done this for 27 years and any answer here would be by-guess, by-golly. Someone who knows wood needs to look at it.
when was the house built? Prior to the 60's most stuff was oak then they went to pine, You may have to remove a piece. Press the back with something, does it leave a mark or is it rock solid.
Also you might look at the sample chart in the hardware store near the stains. They have small strips of wood showing how the stain reacts.
What kind of grain does it have? Is the wood itself have any color? If very light, probably pine. If it is close grain, probably a hard wood. Try sampling a stain on a small piece of it. If the color comes up dark , quickly, then it is a soft wood. If you need to apply several coats to reach the darkness you want, then it is probably oak, maybe hemlock.
Recognizing different species of wood is a skill learned by years of woodworking. I don't think I can tell you by description. Oak is grainy (lots of visible grain lines) Ash appears like oak but is lighter color and less weight. Others with a smoother less visible grain are pine, fir,popular,cherry, and basswood. You can determine hard wood vs softwood by digging in your fingernail.
I've worked with wood for 35 years, and there are literally thousands of different types globally. If necessary, you could locate a book or search the web for a site that graphically details different types. I have such a book, and even then it's difficult for the more exotic species. You could ask a local handyman to come take a look - (s)he could give you a good guess, and it if a more common type of wood, i.e., cherry mahogony, walnut (s)he could probably tell you that much.
Good luck
added: p.s. wood isn't labeled soft or hard by their density, although it works most of the time - rather it depends upon whether the tree keeps it's leaves through out the year!I HAVE STIPPED THE PAINT OFF THE WOODWORK AND I NEED TO KNOW WHAT KIND OF WOOD IT IS. HOW DO I TELL?
It is very likely some variation of pine...or if hardwood it would be oak. You can tell Oak by a very distinct grain. Take a fingernail in some out of the way place and push in slightly. If it goes in easily it is probably pine (fir).I HAVE STIPPED THE PAINT OFF THE WOODWORK AND I NEED TO KNOW WHAT KIND OF WOOD IT IS. HOW DO I TELL?
Woodwork??? No don't tell me I can guess
From What cabinets, desk, piano, molding?
Cut off a small section. Light the section on fire. If it burns yellow then it's a hardwood. If it burns orange, then it's not.
Cut off another small section - Soak it in alcohol. If the grain turns green. It's pine. If not, then it's Oak.
Repeat if needed.
-J
Search Garrett Wade on the net. I believe you can purchase samples of wood there. Why not take a piece of the wood to a woodworker and get his advice?
Read what Stretch wrote and you have your how to find out taken care of. I've done this for 27 years and any answer here would be by-guess, by-golly. Someone who knows wood needs to look at it.
when was the house built? Prior to the 60's most stuff was oak then they went to pine, You may have to remove a piece. Press the back with something, does it leave a mark or is it rock solid.
Also you might look at the sample chart in the hardware store near the stains. They have small strips of wood showing how the stain reacts.
What kind of grain does it have? Is the wood itself have any color? If very light, probably pine. If it is close grain, probably a hard wood. Try sampling a stain on a small piece of it. If the color comes up dark , quickly, then it is a soft wood. If you need to apply several coats to reach the darkness you want, then it is probably oak, maybe hemlock.
Recognizing different species of wood is a skill learned by years of woodworking. I don't think I can tell you by description. Oak is grainy (lots of visible grain lines) Ash appears like oak but is lighter color and less weight. Others with a smoother less visible grain are pine, fir,popular,cherry, and basswood. You can determine hard wood vs softwood by digging in your fingernail.
How to remove paint from finished wood work?
Hi
We purchased a post and beam home - lots of pine everywhere - walls, ceiling, floor. I have noticed that the previous owners have dripped paint on some of the beams and I would like to remove it - somehow? I'm tempted to lightly sand it off and then get some clear varnish to seal up the scuffed up area. My husband is convinced I'll ruin it but I personally don't think it can look any worse. Are there any tips, secrets or techniques anyone can share with me how I can do this myself? The wood does have some stain on it but its a very light colour (I wouldn't sand down to bare wood).
Any advice greatly appreciated, and thanks.How to remove paint from finished wood work?
i guessing the paint drips are white , and there from when the cieling was painted? are the beams varnished? if so and the paint is water based,(a little easier) oil based tends to seep into the wood, use a razor blade and carefully cut the paint off. the closer to the wood the better, without scratching the varnish, take your time.. then use a fine steel wool to remove the rest of the paint, it should kinda buff out.How to remove paint from finished wood work?
if it's latex paint you could try rubbing alcohol. it dissolves latex paint and shouldn't hurt the finish on the beam which should be an oil based product. test an inconspicuous spot first.
There i no secret you could just buy paint remover and remove it with a rag try not to do any scraping Good Luck
I have used (goof off) and it works great. But don't get it on anything that is made of plastic because it will melt it.
would paint thinner work, idk. i just believe it would work because of the name
We purchased a post and beam home - lots of pine everywhere - walls, ceiling, floor. I have noticed that the previous owners have dripped paint on some of the beams and I would like to remove it - somehow? I'm tempted to lightly sand it off and then get some clear varnish to seal up the scuffed up area. My husband is convinced I'll ruin it but I personally don't think it can look any worse. Are there any tips, secrets or techniques anyone can share with me how I can do this myself? The wood does have some stain on it but its a very light colour (I wouldn't sand down to bare wood).
Any advice greatly appreciated, and thanks.How to remove paint from finished wood work?
i guessing the paint drips are white , and there from when the cieling was painted? are the beams varnished? if so and the paint is water based,(a little easier) oil based tends to seep into the wood, use a razor blade and carefully cut the paint off. the closer to the wood the better, without scratching the varnish, take your time.. then use a fine steel wool to remove the rest of the paint, it should kinda buff out.How to remove paint from finished wood work?
if it's latex paint you could try rubbing alcohol. it dissolves latex paint and shouldn't hurt the finish on the beam which should be an oil based product. test an inconspicuous spot first.
There i no secret you could just buy paint remover and remove it with a rag try not to do any scraping Good Luck
I have used (goof off) and it works great. But don't get it on anything that is made of plastic because it will melt it.
would paint thinner work, idk. i just believe it would work because of the name
How to stick paper on wood for painting designs?
I'm painting the bottom of my longboard and need a good way to get some paper cutouts to stick so I can paint over them and then remove to leave behind the design. The better the stick and easier the removal the better. Any help would be appreciated. How to stick paper on wood for painting designs?
Get some ModPodge... if you put it on both surfaces and then put them together when they dry they stick, but will peel away easily... even easier if you use a plastic instead of paper for cut outs... clear celaphane or something... if that doesn't work I would try double sides tape so it comes free from the wood... good luck! :)
Get some ModPodge... if you put it on both surfaces and then put them together when they dry they stick, but will peel away easily... even easier if you use a plastic instead of paper for cut outs... clear celaphane or something... if that doesn't work I would try double sides tape so it comes free from the wood... good luck! :)
Painting over faux wood panels, and how to make my room appear larger?
Hello! I have faux wood paneling in my very small bedroom, and wooden floors as well and it feels really claustrophobic. Does anyone have any tips on how to paint over the paneling? I'd much rather prefer to take the panels off, but I don't want to know what's behind there lol. And also, any tips on how to make my room appear larger, besides painting it white? Thanks in advance.Painting over faux wood panels, and how to make my room appear larger?
Lightly sand the panelling to take the shine off..I just primed and painted the panelling I used to have..I love the look of it..some people fill in the lines, but I like the texture the wall has when it is painted as is...You can choose just about any colour, but keep it a light hue...blue, green, aqua, turquoise, yellow, or pink..any colour will be nice..I would suggest to pick a colour from your bedding, or a favourite colour. Enjoy!Painting over faux wood panels, and how to make my room appear larger?
You don't have to paint it white, but A light color will make your room seem bigger ( I do agree with you, DON'T take the paneling down, unless you have the money to renovate, which is another headache unto itself)
maybe a pale yellow or light blue, which won't seem as stark as white...
also MAKE SURE TO PRIME THE WALLS, the paint WON'T STICK IF YOU DON'T PRIME!!! ask the paint store for help, they will know
Lightly sand the panelling to take the shine off..I just primed and painted the panelling I used to have..I love the look of it..some people fill in the lines, but I like the texture the wall has when it is painted as is...You can choose just about any colour, but keep it a light hue...blue, green, aqua, turquoise, yellow, or pink..any colour will be nice..I would suggest to pick a colour from your bedding, or a favourite colour. Enjoy!Painting over faux wood panels, and how to make my room appear larger?
You don't have to paint it white, but A light color will make your room seem bigger ( I do agree with you, DON'T take the paneling down, unless you have the money to renovate, which is another headache unto itself)
maybe a pale yellow or light blue, which won't seem as stark as white...
also MAKE SURE TO PRIME THE WALLS, the paint WON'T STICK IF YOU DON'T PRIME!!! ask the paint store for help, they will know
How long must you wait to apply polyurithaine after painting wood?
to answer your question lol lol ,
i wait 24 hours under normal conditions, if it cold out side , maybe a week
dont forget to give it about four coats, i pour it over the floor
and use a paint brush to make it smooth,
the more coats the better , and thin coats work better than one big one , each time you use the brush store it back in the can ,so you dont need to re wash it againHow long must you wait to apply polyurithaine after painting wood?
untill it's dry..How long must you wait to apply polyurithaine after painting wood?
I put the polyurithaine in the paint.
you don't apply polyurithaine to painted wood it is aply to stained wood, prime the wood first than apply a good quality interior or exterior paint about 2to 3 coats
You didn't need to put a poly clear coat on top of paint... Paint comes in several different sheens... from flat to high-gloss... Also... some oil-based clear coats tend to yellow after so long.
i wait 24 hours under normal conditions, if it cold out side , maybe a week
dont forget to give it about four coats, i pour it over the floor
and use a paint brush to make it smooth,
the more coats the better , and thin coats work better than one big one , each time you use the brush store it back in the can ,so you dont need to re wash it againHow long must you wait to apply polyurithaine after painting wood?
untill it's dry..How long must you wait to apply polyurithaine after painting wood?
I put the polyurithaine in the paint.
you don't apply polyurithaine to painted wood it is aply to stained wood, prime the wood first than apply a good quality interior or exterior paint about 2to 3 coats
You didn't need to put a poly clear coat on top of paint... Paint comes in several different sheens... from flat to high-gloss... Also... some oil-based clear coats tend to yellow after so long.
I have two end tables that are stained a light wood color. i wanted to know how to sand them down and paint.?
i want to paint them turquoise with a vintage look.....my furniture is burgundy but i figured it would look good since burgundy is somewhat of a brown. I would like for the furniture colors to be all mix-matched just for a fun colorful vintage look... please, tell me what you think?I have two end tables that are stained a light wood color. i wanted to know how to sand them down and paint.?
I won't make any suggestions on the colors you select, since that's strictly a matter of personal preference. To paint the tables, first sand them with 80-100 grit sandpaper. You don't need to take them down to bare wood, you just want to rough up the surface to give the paint some tooth. Next, apply a quality primer, such as Benjamin Moore Fresh Start or Zinsser 1-2-3. Since you are painting the tables turquoise, have the primer tinted to help the finish paint cover better. After the primer dries, sand lightly with 150 grit. Apply 2 coats of satin or semi gloss finish paint. I use Benjamin Moore Super Spec. It's their pro line, but it's cheaper than Regal and covers great. It's also very durable, which is important with furniture. Pricewise, it's a few dollars more then Behr, but it blows Behr away with coverage and durability. Since you should be able to get 2 coats out of a gallon, it's worth the extra $8-10. Hope this helps.I have two end tables that are stained a light wood color. i wanted to know how to sand them down and paint.?
Thank you for your input....i really appreciate it!!!
It's really going to help me a lot.
As long as they are solid wood you just get sand paper and go to it, you can rent electrical sanders, Ive not used the solvents they sell at Home Depot, that might also work well for you. Once all the shallac and stain are gone, you can simply paint them. The sales persons at Home Depot and Lowes, are very trained to know what type of products to use to get the results you want. Print a pic of the color you want, I think its home depot that has a computer that scans the picture and exactly matches and creates the paint color you want, or so the commercial on tv shows.
Sand with the grain go with the lines, not against.
Depending on shades, without seeing what you have in mind, I dont know, I love both those colors, so I would definately think it would work!
Hey, that sounds really retro - reminds me of a cabin at the beach, where furniture is brought in willy-nilly and refinished with whatever colors strike you at the moment. Very cool.
As far as sanding those end tables, You don't want to use a coarse sandpaper - try using a finer one because you only want to take the layer off that has the stain. Then you can put a base coat - usually flat white - followed by the final coat in the color you want.
You can also get more specific advice at your local hardware store, or Home Depot. I wouldn't go to WalMart - they don't have a clue.
Hope everything comes out the way you're hoping.
The two end tables can be painted turquoise after you have taken a fine sandpaper and go over the surface to help the paint stick. I would wipe the tables with soap and water to clean off any bad stains. Follow with a light sanding and then use a spray paint for furniture or a primer and paint combo. If you choose primer and paint a good, medium size paintbrush will help make it look great. Another accent color that would go with the Burgundy and turquoise is a light cream color or a pale orange.myspace pages
I won't make any suggestions on the colors you select, since that's strictly a matter of personal preference. To paint the tables, first sand them with 80-100 grit sandpaper. You don't need to take them down to bare wood, you just want to rough up the surface to give the paint some tooth. Next, apply a quality primer, such as Benjamin Moore Fresh Start or Zinsser 1-2-3. Since you are painting the tables turquoise, have the primer tinted to help the finish paint cover better. After the primer dries, sand lightly with 150 grit. Apply 2 coats of satin or semi gloss finish paint. I use Benjamin Moore Super Spec. It's their pro line, but it's cheaper than Regal and covers great. It's also very durable, which is important with furniture. Pricewise, it's a few dollars more then Behr, but it blows Behr away with coverage and durability. Since you should be able to get 2 coats out of a gallon, it's worth the extra $8-10. Hope this helps.I have two end tables that are stained a light wood color. i wanted to know how to sand them down and paint.?
Thank you for your input....i really appreciate it!!!
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It's really going to help me a lot.
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As long as they are solid wood you just get sand paper and go to it, you can rent electrical sanders, Ive not used the solvents they sell at Home Depot, that might also work well for you. Once all the shallac and stain are gone, you can simply paint them. The sales persons at Home Depot and Lowes, are very trained to know what type of products to use to get the results you want. Print a pic of the color you want, I think its home depot that has a computer that scans the picture and exactly matches and creates the paint color you want, or so the commercial on tv shows.
Sand with the grain go with the lines, not against.
Depending on shades, without seeing what you have in mind, I dont know, I love both those colors, so I would definately think it would work!
Hey, that sounds really retro - reminds me of a cabin at the beach, where furniture is brought in willy-nilly and refinished with whatever colors strike you at the moment. Very cool.
As far as sanding those end tables, You don't want to use a coarse sandpaper - try using a finer one because you only want to take the layer off that has the stain. Then you can put a base coat - usually flat white - followed by the final coat in the color you want.
You can also get more specific advice at your local hardware store, or Home Depot. I wouldn't go to WalMart - they don't have a clue.
Hope everything comes out the way you're hoping.
The two end tables can be painted turquoise after you have taken a fine sandpaper and go over the surface to help the paint stick. I would wipe the tables with soap and water to clean off any bad stains. Follow with a light sanding and then use a spray paint for furniture or a primer and paint combo. If you choose primer and paint a good, medium size paintbrush will help make it look great. Another accent color that would go with the Burgundy and turquoise is a light cream color or a pale orange.
How much sand do you put in porch paint to be painted on wood porch so it isn't slippery?
The packaging of silica should give an amount (probably per gallon) that you have to add.
I generally don't recommend paint on a porch because if it is exposed to the elements (ie. water), paint WILL PEEL. Solid body stain is better.
Is it outside? Has it already peeled?How much sand do you put in porch paint to be painted on wood porch so it isn't slippery?
Home stores and paint stores offer a silica additive for this purpose. It is relativly cheap and will stay in suspension longer than sand.How much sand do you put in porch paint to be painted on wood porch so it isn't slippery?
If you mix it in the paint, it will just sink to the bottom. Sprinkle it on the wet paint. Then maybe let it dry and apply another coat.
I generally don't recommend paint on a porch because if it is exposed to the elements (ie. water), paint WILL PEEL. Solid body stain is better.
Is it outside? Has it already peeled?How much sand do you put in porch paint to be painted on wood porch so it isn't slippery?
Home stores and paint stores offer a silica additive for this purpose. It is relativly cheap and will stay in suspension longer than sand.How much sand do you put in porch paint to be painted on wood porch so it isn't slippery?
If you mix it in the paint, it will just sink to the bottom. Sprinkle it on the wet paint. Then maybe let it dry and apply another coat.
How do you get rid of adhesive stickies on a painted wood door without damaging the door to much?
I had a stick-on towel bar on my bathroom door and now I no longer want the bar on. When I took the bar off part of the stick adhesive is still stuck to the door and I'm not as to how to get rid of it. Any ideas?
It is a white painted door.How do you get rid of adhesive stickies on a painted wood door without damaging the door to much?
use a product called ';citrus force'; mix it with water at 1 part citrus force 5 parts water and spray on. it will remove the adhesive but not the paint. you can get citrus force direct from Lanotec( Queensland, Australia) or try your hardware storeHow do you get rid of adhesive stickies on a painted wood door without damaging the door to much?
goo gone
hmm, well depends how strong the adhesive is but i would sugguest maybe putting some sort of lubricant bhind it or water to try and loosen it up and maybe slide a knife in the back of it. If it pulls off some paint you can always go over it.
Try a cotton ball with vegtable oil on it and rub it like you were taking nail polish off ..the oil won't take the paint off..or ..if it's not too thick sometimes duck tape placed on it and removed several times helps loosen it.
Warm water on a wash cloth. Press it on the door for a few and peel off the sticker.
You can try a blowdryer too.
Depending on how long the door has been painted you can use alcohol on a bath cloth.
If it's been painted recently dap a small amount of baby oil on a piece of tissue and wipe.
Should do the trick
Avon skin so soft.
Goo Gone at the local hardware store
RUBBING ALCOHOL ON WASHCLOTH....
Goo Gone works really good and it doesn't damage wood at all.
as you pull on the sticker slowely use a blow dryer on the stickey part of the sticker
There is some stuff called Goo-B-Gone (or something like that). It works really well. You can get it at Target and stores like that. It's inexpensive too.
after you tried some of the others you can still try WD 40 allow to soak in and peel off.. it also moistens the wood.
try rubbing peanut butter on it
that is what you use to remove
most sticker glues from a hard surface.
I use wd-40 on it then peel it off. it works wonders on alot of stuff.
use fried chicken grease it will make it not sticky
goof off that comes in a can is really good for labels, gum etc.. or WD 40. WD also works for paint, dry hands, arthritis.
mayo rubbed in.
if the paint is over 30 days old then you can use paint thinner, mineral spirits, that kind of thing available at hard ware stores, home depot, sherwin williams, or banjamin moore's, along with a few other places
goo-b-gone is a cleaning solution that should work...
sometimes paint thinner applied lightly, but I'd make sure it didn't interfere with the paint on the door....
Zep Big Orange
It is a white painted door.How do you get rid of adhesive stickies on a painted wood door without damaging the door to much?
use a product called ';citrus force'; mix it with water at 1 part citrus force 5 parts water and spray on. it will remove the adhesive but not the paint. you can get citrus force direct from Lanotec( Queensland, Australia) or try your hardware storeHow do you get rid of adhesive stickies on a painted wood door without damaging the door to much?
goo gone
hmm, well depends how strong the adhesive is but i would sugguest maybe putting some sort of lubricant bhind it or water to try and loosen it up and maybe slide a knife in the back of it. If it pulls off some paint you can always go over it.
Try a cotton ball with vegtable oil on it and rub it like you were taking nail polish off ..the oil won't take the paint off..or ..if it's not too thick sometimes duck tape placed on it and removed several times helps loosen it.
Warm water on a wash cloth. Press it on the door for a few and peel off the sticker.
You can try a blowdryer too.
Depending on how long the door has been painted you can use alcohol on a bath cloth.
If it's been painted recently dap a small amount of baby oil on a piece of tissue and wipe.
Should do the trick
Avon skin so soft.
Goo Gone at the local hardware store
RUBBING ALCOHOL ON WASHCLOTH....
Goo Gone works really good and it doesn't damage wood at all.
as you pull on the sticker slowely use a blow dryer on the stickey part of the sticker
There is some stuff called Goo-B-Gone (or something like that). It works really well. You can get it at Target and stores like that. It's inexpensive too.
after you tried some of the others you can still try WD 40 allow to soak in and peel off.. it also moistens the wood.
try rubbing peanut butter on it
that is what you use to remove
most sticker glues from a hard surface.
I use wd-40 on it then peel it off. it works wonders on alot of stuff.
use fried chicken grease it will make it not sticky
goof off that comes in a can is really good for labels, gum etc.. or WD 40. WD also works for paint, dry hands, arthritis.
mayo rubbed in.
if the paint is over 30 days old then you can use paint thinner, mineral spirits, that kind of thing available at hard ware stores, home depot, sherwin williams, or banjamin moore's, along with a few other places
goo-b-gone is a cleaning solution that should work...
sometimes paint thinner applied lightly, but I'd make sure it didn't interfere with the paint on the door....
Zep Big Orange
Does anyone know how to remove nail polish off linoleum floor, and painted wood door with out ruining the door?
I'm not sure if my door is actually wood or not or what, I've noticed the trim around my door is not actually wood. So i don't know if the door is made out of the same material.Does anyone know how to remove nail polish off linoleum floor, and painted wood door with out ruining the door?
Why not nail polish remover?
Add: I actually have used remover, but I also did it quickly and had a couple of wet rags to get off the remover fast. Hardware store must have some product, I would ask them.Does anyone know how to remove nail polish off linoleum floor, and painted wood door with out ruining the door?
You can purchase a nail polish remover that does not contain acetone. That should work and not hurt your paint. Walmart carries this.
Why not nail polish remover?
Add: I actually have used remover, but I also did it quickly and had a couple of wet rags to get off the remover fast. Hardware store must have some product, I would ask them.Does anyone know how to remove nail polish off linoleum floor, and painted wood door with out ruining the door?
You can purchase a nail polish remover that does not contain acetone. That should work and not hurt your paint. Walmart carries this.
Iam taking an art class and I need to know how to find out why artist like leanardo used wood panel to paint?
like if they used it because wood panel was smoother so the ppicture came out more clear. Or Canvas that would have been more roough maybeIam taking an art class and I need to know how to find out why artist like leanardo used wood panel to paint?
Leonardo was a very experimental person... He had a lot of interesting knick knacks as invetions too. PERHAPS he wanted to try something new for painting....Iam taking an art class and I need to know how to find out why artist like leanardo used wood panel to paint?
Speaking for myself, I sometimes use wood panels to paint. I like it for highly detailed pieces because if properly prepared the detail can be wonderful. I use untempered hardboard. I coat it with about 4 or 5 coats of gesso that have been thinned a little and sand the surface lightly between coats. Let the gesso dry well between coats. This is how many big time wildlife painters get those fantastic results.
Leonardo simply carried on the common practice of his time. The old Medieval artists painted on wood because they used egg tempera paint. Tempera required a priming that was extremely brittle, therefore a rigid support like wood was necessary to prevent the painting from cracking. As oil paint became more and more common in the Renaissance, artists simply just kept on painting on wood. It has nothing at all to do with the smooth surface.
It was just what everyone did. Somewhere along the line, artists realized that linen was adequate, too, as long as they used a different primer, one that wouldn't crack. They discovered oil primer.
It was soon realized that linen was far more convenient than wood because it was lighter, less prone to warping, and could be rolled and stored until needed.
google it and find out
Canvas is not as stable as wood and it also doesn't age as well. If you want a picture to last, you paint it on properly prepared wood.
It has been said that ';The whole world is your canvas.'; This could have been all that was available at the time. Many times it is by preference as well. Art can be done on anything that is available.
I have really not considered this myself and in my years of teaching art, this question has never arisen.
Good Luck with you answer
Da Vinci was an innovator in many, many ways but had the foresight to stick to the traditional of painting on wood panel, because he rightly believe best quality wood panels stand up the best over time -i.e. the painting appplied to it and the effort made in painting can not be accidently ruined which is the case with stretched canvas.
http://www.aswexpress.com/discount-art-s鈥?/a>
Hi,
I'm going to answer this without doing any search, so I may be inducing you in error. But here goes : in the time of Leonardo, painters usually used wood pannels (sp?), not canvases. Linen was something expensive, I guess.
Another thing : Leonardo painted usually with Tempera and canvas is not suitable for tempera.
Take care,
Jos茅
http://sitekreator.com/hushcolours/index鈥?/a>
Leonardo was a very experimental person... He had a lot of interesting knick knacks as invetions too. PERHAPS he wanted to try something new for painting....Iam taking an art class and I need to know how to find out why artist like leanardo used wood panel to paint?
Speaking for myself, I sometimes use wood panels to paint. I like it for highly detailed pieces because if properly prepared the detail can be wonderful. I use untempered hardboard. I coat it with about 4 or 5 coats of gesso that have been thinned a little and sand the surface lightly between coats. Let the gesso dry well between coats. This is how many big time wildlife painters get those fantastic results.
Leonardo simply carried on the common practice of his time. The old Medieval artists painted on wood because they used egg tempera paint. Tempera required a priming that was extremely brittle, therefore a rigid support like wood was necessary to prevent the painting from cracking. As oil paint became more and more common in the Renaissance, artists simply just kept on painting on wood. It has nothing at all to do with the smooth surface.
It was just what everyone did. Somewhere along the line, artists realized that linen was adequate, too, as long as they used a different primer, one that wouldn't crack. They discovered oil primer.
It was soon realized that linen was far more convenient than wood because it was lighter, less prone to warping, and could be rolled and stored until needed.
google it and find out
Canvas is not as stable as wood and it also doesn't age as well. If you want a picture to last, you paint it on properly prepared wood.
It has been said that ';The whole world is your canvas.'; This could have been all that was available at the time. Many times it is by preference as well. Art can be done on anything that is available.
I have really not considered this myself and in my years of teaching art, this question has never arisen.
Good Luck with you answer
Da Vinci was an innovator in many, many ways but had the foresight to stick to the traditional of painting on wood panel, because he rightly believe best quality wood panels stand up the best over time -i.e. the painting appplied to it and the effort made in painting can not be accidently ruined which is the case with stretched canvas.
http://www.aswexpress.com/discount-art-s鈥?/a>
Hi,
I'm going to answer this without doing any search, so I may be inducing you in error. But here goes : in the time of Leonardo, painters usually used wood pannels (sp?), not canvases. Linen was something expensive, I guess.
Another thing : Leonardo painted usually with Tempera and canvas is not suitable for tempera.
Take care,
Jos茅
http://sitekreator.com/hushcolours/index鈥?/a>
How to remove pencil markings from painted wood?
i am currently painting a piece of wood, i want to seal it but there are some stray pencil marks i want to remove. How can i do that without repainting since i am out of the original color i used?How to remove pencil markings from painted wood?
I know this answer might sound dumb, but try erasing it with a pretty good eraser. If not, you can try washing it with wet cloth, but that might smudge the pencil a little. You can also try buying a similar paint, I bet it will be hard to notice. Hope I helped. Good luck.How to remove pencil markings from painted wood?
Use a good soft pink pencil eraser to remove the graphite. You may not be able to remove the pressure marks, though since you can't sand it lightly without removing the finish.
The soft pink pencil eraser is your best bet since the wood's already painted and you don't have any more of that paint. I would hesitate to put any solvent on the wood because it may affect the paint. Even GooGone or Desolvit will leave a discoloration.
Try an artist's gum eraser - don't wash it - anything strong enough to take off the pencil marks could take off the paint also.
If it were me I would buy a quart of the original paint if I could - it doesn't hurt to have it for touch ups anyway.
try meths on a soft cloth
I know this answer might sound dumb, but try erasing it with a pretty good eraser. If not, you can try washing it with wet cloth, but that might smudge the pencil a little. You can also try buying a similar paint, I bet it will be hard to notice. Hope I helped. Good luck.How to remove pencil markings from painted wood?
Use a good soft pink pencil eraser to remove the graphite. You may not be able to remove the pressure marks, though since you can't sand it lightly without removing the finish.
The soft pink pencil eraser is your best bet since the wood's already painted and you don't have any more of that paint. I would hesitate to put any solvent on the wood because it may affect the paint. Even GooGone or Desolvit will leave a discoloration.
Try an artist's gum eraser - don't wash it - anything strong enough to take off the pencil marks could take off the paint also.
If it were me I would buy a quart of the original paint if I could - it doesn't hurt to have it for touch ups anyway.
try meths on a soft cloth
I have a 3 bd. house in southern cal. Stucco w/wood facia board, 36in eves, trim. How much labor to paint it?
I know you should have a lot more info or some will say they would have to look at it first. But can anyone give me a approx. price on what i would expect to pay.I have a 3 bd. house in southern cal. Stucco w/wood facia board, 36in eves, trim. How much labor to paint it?
Ballpark guess for your market is somewhere between $8000 and 15000.The real variable is whether there's any repair needed to the stucco. It's becoming a lost art. Those who do it well know they can charge an arm and a leg because homeowners are held captive.myspace pages
Ballpark guess for your market is somewhere between $8000 and 15000.The real variable is whether there's any repair needed to the stucco. It's becoming a lost art. Those who do it well know they can charge an arm and a leg because homeowners are held captive.
Any ideas as to how to hang a painting on wood? Too thin to put a sawtooth behind it.?
I painted something in oil on a piece of thin wood - it came out great - much to my surprise - how to hang it? Piece is tooth in to put a nail into.Any ideas as to how to hang a painting on wood? Too thin to put a sawtooth behind it.?
Try to do a little creative wire rig on the back. If you can't put a nail in, I imagine that you can't put in a small screw in eye hook. I just hung a similar piece that was very light by using a flat headed thumb tack on both top back corners approx 1 inch down from top and 1/2 inch in towards center; then I connected my hanging wire to these tacks. This is just like what you would do with the screw eye hooks, but with the flat head thumb tacks. You may have to use a hammer if you painted on mylar or other really hard wood. If that doesn't work, time for a frame! Good luck!Any ideas as to how to hang a painting on wood? Too thin to put a sawtooth behind it.?
Hardware stores and hobby shops sell a hanger which is a hook shaped like a tiny candy cane attached to two pieces
of adhesive tape I don't know the name of them . I think they come in pairs the hook as I mentioned and the eye on the other piece. You can ask for A ( hook and eye set ) for hanging pictures and tell them it is the kind with adhesive on them. You will need two sets for both sides of your picture. I found it for you below%26gt;
http://hardware.hardwarestore.com/28-447鈥?/a>
another idea below%26gt;
http://ep.yimg.com/ip/I/123frame_2056_11鈥?/a>
http://123frame.net/velhookandlo.html
It sounds like it may be light so you could buy those glue on tabs that have an ';eye'; or metal grommet reinforced hole at the top.
Try to do a little creative wire rig on the back. If you can't put a nail in, I imagine that you can't put in a small screw in eye hook. I just hung a similar piece that was very light by using a flat headed thumb tack on both top back corners approx 1 inch down from top and 1/2 inch in towards center; then I connected my hanging wire to these tacks. This is just like what you would do with the screw eye hooks, but with the flat head thumb tacks. You may have to use a hammer if you painted on mylar or other really hard wood. If that doesn't work, time for a frame! Good luck!Any ideas as to how to hang a painting on wood? Too thin to put a sawtooth behind it.?
Hardware stores and hobby shops sell a hanger which is a hook shaped like a tiny candy cane attached to two pieces
of adhesive tape I don't know the name of them . I think they come in pairs the hook as I mentioned and the eye on the other piece. You can ask for A ( hook and eye set ) for hanging pictures and tell them it is the kind with adhesive on them. You will need two sets for both sides of your picture. I found it for you below%26gt;
http://hardware.hardwarestore.com/28-447鈥?/a>
another idea below%26gt;
http://ep.yimg.com/ip/I/123frame_2056_11鈥?/a>
http://123frame.net/velhookandlo.html
It sounds like it may be light so you could buy those glue on tabs that have an ';eye'; or metal grommet reinforced hole at the top.
How can you tell if wood is dry enough to paint?
I plan on restoring the original wood windows in my 100 year old farm house.The first thing I am going to have to do is remove many thick coats of paint.I have heard that steam works well to loosen thick coats of paint,and I am considering building a steam chamber out of a 55 gallon drum to heat the sashes up to 200 degrees or so to loosen the paint.Assuming I am successfull in removing the paint,how can I tell when the wood is dried out thoroughly,and ready to paint.
Please note,I am not submersing the wood sashes in water,I am exposing them to 212 degree hot air and steam.How can you tell if wood is dry enough to paint?
I have never heard of this technique - doen't mean that's wrong, but never heard of it. I am going to guess that if you do expose the windows to steam heat for a prolonged period, expect the glazing compound to fail. You didn't say if you planned on re-glazing.
Personally the product Peel-away works fine for removing many layers of paint. Peel-away is expensive, but it works and isn't as messy as regular paint stripper.
If I didn't want to spend the money on a paint stripper, I would next try a heat gun.
Lastly, the only sure way to see of the wood is too wet to paint is to use a moisture meter. Unfortunately, moisture meters are all expensive, which is a damn shame.How can you tell if wood is dry enough to paint?
If you're using steam that is 212 degrees, it should be hot enough that it evaporates fairly quickly and won't absorb too much into the wood. You should be able to tell by looking at the wood when it's dry (wood gets darker when wet).
I would think, though, that it would be better to use a paint stripper to remove the old paint (I'm not sure the steam thing will work). Paint stripper is a caustic gel that you paint onto what you want to remove and wait about 10 minutes. You can actually watch the gel penetrate the paint, dissolve it, and have it blister up so you can easily scrape the goo away to remove the paint. Then wipe away the remaining residue with a wet terry cloth. Use a screwdriver or small chisel to pick the stripped paint out of crevices and corners.
If you do use a stripper, wear heavy rubber gauntlet gloves (long gloves that cover your forearms) that are corrosive-resistant and long sleeves during the whole operation. If even a tiny drop of stripper gets on your skin, it burns like a wasp sting until you wipe it off with a wet cloth.
Please note,I am not submersing the wood sashes in water,I am exposing them to 212 degree hot air and steam.How can you tell if wood is dry enough to paint?
I have never heard of this technique - doen't mean that's wrong, but never heard of it. I am going to guess that if you do expose the windows to steam heat for a prolonged period, expect the glazing compound to fail. You didn't say if you planned on re-glazing.
Personally the product Peel-away works fine for removing many layers of paint. Peel-away is expensive, but it works and isn't as messy as regular paint stripper.
If I didn't want to spend the money on a paint stripper, I would next try a heat gun.
Lastly, the only sure way to see of the wood is too wet to paint is to use a moisture meter. Unfortunately, moisture meters are all expensive, which is a damn shame.How can you tell if wood is dry enough to paint?
If you're using steam that is 212 degrees, it should be hot enough that it evaporates fairly quickly and won't absorb too much into the wood. You should be able to tell by looking at the wood when it's dry (wood gets darker when wet).
I would think, though, that it would be better to use a paint stripper to remove the old paint (I'm not sure the steam thing will work). Paint stripper is a caustic gel that you paint onto what you want to remove and wait about 10 minutes. You can actually watch the gel penetrate the paint, dissolve it, and have it blister up so you can easily scrape the goo away to remove the paint. Then wipe away the remaining residue with a wet terry cloth. Use a screwdriver or small chisel to pick the stripped paint out of crevices and corners.
If you do use a stripper, wear heavy rubber gauntlet gloves (long gloves that cover your forearms) that are corrosive-resistant and long sleeves during the whole operation. If even a tiny drop of stripper gets on your skin, it burns like a wasp sting until you wipe it off with a wet cloth.
How do you paint metal exterior doors to look like wood?
Here are the steps and tools needed
Remember that it would be best to remove door to accomplish this.
When painting metal doors it's best to get those foam brushes instead of bristle brushes.
But since you are want to paint a grain feature you may want to test which you like best.
http://www.otherhandproductions.com/wood鈥?/a>How do you paint metal exterior doors to look like wood?
MIN WAX HAS MANY STAINS THAT CAN GO OVER A NEUTRAL BACKGROUND TO MAKE METAL LOOK LIKE WOOD....OR YOU CAN GET A KIT IN THE PAINTING ISLE OF A HOME DEPOT OR WAL MART...How do you paint metal exterior doors to look like wood?
Its called doing a faux finish on ur door, but u need proper primer for the metal door before doing it.
Start with a base of brown paint, let it dry then add streaks of a darker brown to black to simulate patterns of the grain in the wood
go to home depot to the paint department and ask them they will know.
do the prep work first-provide a clean surface
apply appropriate primer for adhesion to exterior metal surface
use a decorative paint product to mimic graining the surface
apply a protective compatable finish (varnish or exterior polyurethane) due to exposure to weather
there are pre mixed paints
we can also mix colours and arrive at wood colourmyspace pages
Remember that it would be best to remove door to accomplish this.
When painting metal doors it's best to get those foam brushes instead of bristle brushes.
But since you are want to paint a grain feature you may want to test which you like best.
http://www.otherhandproductions.com/wood鈥?/a>How do you paint metal exterior doors to look like wood?
MIN WAX HAS MANY STAINS THAT CAN GO OVER A NEUTRAL BACKGROUND TO MAKE METAL LOOK LIKE WOOD....OR YOU CAN GET A KIT IN THE PAINTING ISLE OF A HOME DEPOT OR WAL MART...How do you paint metal exterior doors to look like wood?
Its called doing a faux finish on ur door, but u need proper primer for the metal door before doing it.
Start with a base of brown paint, let it dry then add streaks of a darker brown to black to simulate patterns of the grain in the wood
go to home depot to the paint department and ask them they will know.
do the prep work first-provide a clean surface
apply appropriate primer for adhesion to exterior metal surface
use a decorative paint product to mimic graining the surface
apply a protective compatable finish (varnish or exterior polyurethane) due to exposure to weather
there are pre mixed paints
we can also mix colours and arrive at wood colour
How to apply awlgrip paint with a roller on sanded wood?
It works best if you have two people doing the painting at the same time.
One of you rolls the awlgrip on the wood and the other follows behind and ';Tips'; the paint with a brush while it's still completely wet. To tip, very gently pull the brush along the paint in one direction. Once a small area has been brushed, brush the area again at 90 degrees to the first brushing; again, very lightly. Do not work the paint over and over, just once in each direction and leave it alone after that. The paint should flow out flat on its own and won't have the orange peel look that one tends to get with a roller. It's also good if you apply the paint at the lower end of the temperature window.How to apply awlgrip paint with a roller on sanded wood?
I meant Dave's answer
How to apply awlgrip paint with a roller on sanded wood?
Read the cans for temperature...also for mixing ratios. You definately need to use more thinner/reducer.
Use the best PURE BRISTLE or Badger Hair brush you can afford...don't cheap out with polyeurethanes. For Large surface areas you can use a foam roller and tip off with the brush.
For the lumpy stuff you've done, you'll have to sand with 220 or 320....I like to wet sand.
It's best to prep a test sheet so you can test your mix before going to the boat pieces.
DO NOT BREATH the Awlgrip...ever.
CHECK their website for further tips and also Interlux's website.
Good luck.
You can use a low nap roller.
One of you rolls the awlgrip on the wood and the other follows behind and ';Tips'; the paint with a brush while it's still completely wet. To tip, very gently pull the brush along the paint in one direction. Once a small area has been brushed, brush the area again at 90 degrees to the first brushing; again, very lightly. Do not work the paint over and over, just once in each direction and leave it alone after that. The paint should flow out flat on its own and won't have the orange peel look that one tends to get with a roller. It's also good if you apply the paint at the lower end of the temperature window.How to apply awlgrip paint with a roller on sanded wood?
I meant Dave's answer
Report Abuse
How to apply awlgrip paint with a roller on sanded wood?
Read the cans for temperature...also for mixing ratios. You definately need to use more thinner/reducer.
Use the best PURE BRISTLE or Badger Hair brush you can afford...don't cheap out with polyeurethanes. For Large surface areas you can use a foam roller and tip off with the brush.
For the lumpy stuff you've done, you'll have to sand with 220 or 320....I like to wet sand.
It's best to prep a test sheet so you can test your mix before going to the boat pieces.
DO NOT BREATH the Awlgrip...ever.
CHECK their website for further tips and also Interlux's website.
Good luck.
You can use a low nap roller.
I have soft wood dresser that I would like to refinish and paint. how do I do this??
i dont know the difference between restoring and refinishing. what i would like to do is get some of the scratch dents out of it(since it is a very soft wood) and then paint it and put new handles on it. can you please tell me how to this? thank you soo much MeganI have soft wood dresser that I would like to refinish and paint. how do I do this??
From your description of the dresser it sounds like it is made of pine. For slight dents, and I mean ever so slight dents, you can lay a wet washcloth over them and using a hot iron, iron the dents out. This works for the most part because the wood absorbs the moisture and the fibers in the wood will swell and the dent will vanish. For deeper dents you will need to get some wood putty and fill them in. For a really smooth look on the spots that you fill in...fill once and level them out as best as you can with a putty knife. Let dry. Sand with a fine grit sandpaper and then fill again. Let dry. Sand again. I don't know what kind of finish is on the dresser now but if it is a stain you will have to sand the whole dresser down, seal it with a primer and then paint it. If it has paint on it now then all you have to do is primer it and then paint. If it is an older dresser the drawer pull holes may not be the standard 3 1/2 inches apart as most modern pulls are. If they are not then putty the holes using the method I described above with the two coats, sanding in between coats of putty. You will have to choose your new hardware and drill the new holes to accomodate the pulls. I would suggest using a semi gloss or gloss paint for the final paint coat. You don't want to use a flat paint.I have soft wood dresser that I would like to refinish and paint. how do I do this??
Restoring is bringing the dresser back to its original color.To refinish it and paint it I would use Min-wax latex wood filler.It dries in a couple of hours and is easy to sand once its dry.Dents in old wood are not going to come up with moisture.The wood has been sealed years ago.Sand,prime paint and enjoy it.
From your description of the dresser it sounds like it is made of pine. For slight dents, and I mean ever so slight dents, you can lay a wet washcloth over them and using a hot iron, iron the dents out. This works for the most part because the wood absorbs the moisture and the fibers in the wood will swell and the dent will vanish. For deeper dents you will need to get some wood putty and fill them in. For a really smooth look on the spots that you fill in...fill once and level them out as best as you can with a putty knife. Let dry. Sand with a fine grit sandpaper and then fill again. Let dry. Sand again. I don't know what kind of finish is on the dresser now but if it is a stain you will have to sand the whole dresser down, seal it with a primer and then paint it. If it has paint on it now then all you have to do is primer it and then paint. If it is an older dresser the drawer pull holes may not be the standard 3 1/2 inches apart as most modern pulls are. If they are not then putty the holes using the method I described above with the two coats, sanding in between coats of putty. You will have to choose your new hardware and drill the new holes to accomodate the pulls. I would suggest using a semi gloss or gloss paint for the final paint coat. You don't want to use a flat paint.I have soft wood dresser that I would like to refinish and paint. how do I do this??
Restoring is bringing the dresser back to its original color.To refinish it and paint it I would use Min-wax latex wood filler.It dries in a couple of hours and is easy to sand once its dry.Dents in old wood are not going to come up with moisture.The wood has been sealed years ago.Sand,prime paint and enjoy it.
How to distress wood with paint?
Here is the easiest way in the world... 1. Distress the finish - a few nicks with a hammer. a few small nail holes (looks like old worm holes) and so on. Some people use a chain and hit the surface. 2. Paint the light base coat in off white, cream, what ever color you want (but lighter) paint leaving brush strokes, (strokes should mimic the wood grain). 3. When dry, take a wood stain in a soft brown, or a brown paint (thinned with water or a thinning compound) and rub it over the surface with a balled up rag. Rub extra where the natural stains would be darker, like near the edges, where dust would be harder to clean... Do it lightly and add more coats to get the right look. I have used this technique many times, and you can't mess up. It's so easy. The stain fills in the brush strokes, and darkens inside the dents and dings. It's a great effect. If it's a big surface, you can brush on the stain and rub it off as well.How to distress wood with paint?
I've seen wood painted white, and then sanded certain areas to bare wood, mainly corners and very small areas.How to distress wood with paint?
you can use the crackling material. paint the base coat that you want, paint the crackling material over it per directions as to how much crackling you want, then paint with your top coat.
to add the nicks and dings, you can hit the furniture with chains, hammers etc.
to ad a ';wear'; look, after painting and the paint is completely dry, think of where the furniture might have been handled the most and sand the paint off in these areas.
tell the paint a sad story...:P
I've seen wood painted white, and then sanded certain areas to bare wood, mainly corners and very small areas.How to distress wood with paint?
you can use the crackling material. paint the base coat that you want, paint the crackling material over it per directions as to how much crackling you want, then paint with your top coat.
to add the nicks and dings, you can hit the furniture with chains, hammers etc.
to ad a ';wear'; look, after painting and the paint is completely dry, think of where the furniture might have been handled the most and sand the paint off in these areas.
tell the paint a sad story...:P
How to get paint off of wood trim?
the guy that painted my current room was an idiot and got paint on all the sides of wood trim in my room. then my mum got pink on it after that. how do i remove it?
i feel stupid for asking, but what is paint thinner? will it do anything?
if there are products that will do the job please give me a link and maybe a price? thank you!How to get paint off of wood trim?
Depending the on what kind of paint ';latex is water based or a Primer which is oil';
Paint thinner is solvent that breaks down the components that bind paint. it's fairly common.
Think of it as nail polish remover for the house!
CAUTION- if you do this yourself make sure windows and doors stay open!!
AND anyone shorter than the door knob should not be in that immediate area!
Home depot is a
great do it yourself superstore!!
GOOD LUCK1
www.homedepot.com
www.lowes.comHow to get paint off of wood trim?
Ok, paint thinner is to remove oil-based paints for the most part. Generally, you can use a sharp metal blade to cut the paint down the line you want, and scrape the paint off by raking the blade along the area. It's best if you have a Paint scaper - you can get them at any hardware store. If there is still difficult areas to get off, you can mask off the area and apply paint removal product (also at a hardware store) which will slowly kind of melt the paint - which you wipe off.
Try using an exacto knife in that area (carefully) to see how that is coming off, and if it's really bad, it may be best to take the window trim itself off and sand it or apply paint removal products to that. Then reapply the trim around the window.
You did not say what you had for trim that made it so special. Mom did not give a shyte either.
Paint on the edges is not a big deal, unless it was done half and half(some here and none there). There is no use me telling you any more than that. Go to the paint store with as much information as you can dig up. What the molding is, what the wall paint is and what can you do about it. They will know.
i feel stupid for asking, but what is paint thinner? will it do anything?
if there are products that will do the job please give me a link and maybe a price? thank you!How to get paint off of wood trim?
Depending the on what kind of paint ';latex is water based or a Primer which is oil';
Paint thinner is solvent that breaks down the components that bind paint. it's fairly common.
Think of it as nail polish remover for the house!
CAUTION- if you do this yourself make sure windows and doors stay open!!
AND anyone shorter than the door knob should not be in that immediate area!
Home depot is a
great do it yourself superstore!!
GOOD LUCK1
www.homedepot.com
www.lowes.comHow to get paint off of wood trim?
Ok, paint thinner is to remove oil-based paints for the most part. Generally, you can use a sharp metal blade to cut the paint down the line you want, and scrape the paint off by raking the blade along the area. It's best if you have a Paint scaper - you can get them at any hardware store. If there is still difficult areas to get off, you can mask off the area and apply paint removal product (also at a hardware store) which will slowly kind of melt the paint - which you wipe off.
Try using an exacto knife in that area (carefully) to see how that is coming off, and if it's really bad, it may be best to take the window trim itself off and sand it or apply paint removal products to that. Then reapply the trim around the window.
You did not say what you had for trim that made it so special. Mom did not give a shyte either.
Paint on the edges is not a big deal, unless it was done half and half(some here and none there). There is no use me telling you any more than that. Go to the paint store with as much information as you can dig up. What the molding is, what the wall paint is and what can you do about it. They will know.
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